Day 1 Siem Reap

VIP arrival at Siem Reap International Airport. Check into the sumptuous Amansara, and settle into your pool suite with your own 16' x 20' swimming pool in your private courtyard. Once the guest villa of King Norodom Sihanouk, it has been transformed into a 24-suite retreat that provides an ideal base for exploring the temples of Angkor and the sophisticated culture of the Khmer civilization. Amansara has the inviting ambience of a gracious home and is set in a private garden compound with mature shade trees.

Visit the Sunrise Angkor Children's Village and Orphanage. It will be impossible not to have your heart touched by the children of Cambodia who have been orphaned due to disease, politically motivated murder, hunger or landmines. A chance to spend some time working with the volunteers and seeing their endeavors and promising results will be a long cherished memory, perhaps more poignant than even the magnificent temples of Angkor.

Afterwards, continue further afield to Beng Melia, a mysterious temple complex taken over by the jungle. Constructed in the early 11th century by King Suryavarman II, Beng Melia has a similar construction to Angkor Wat, and is along an ancient road connecting Angkor Thom and Preah Khan. You will feel like you are in an Indiana Jones film wandering around this magical jungle clad ruin.

Have dinner at Amansara, preceded by a private informal cooking demonstration of traditional Khmer cuisine.

Take a boat trip on Tonle Sap, the largest freshwater lake in Southeast Asia, passing through floating villages that unveil the mystique of this area. During the wet season, the water inflow expands the surface area of the lake more than fivefold, creating a diverse ecosystem with more than 100 species of water birds and 200 species of fish.

Return across the lake, and relax with glass of champagne as you watch one of the most magical sunsets imaginable.

Drive back to Siem Reap, and have a private tour of the studio of one of Cambodia's top artists. Have dinner with her afterwards at the Meric restaurant in the hip Hotel de la Paix. This evening will be a great opportunity to discuss and see firsthand the history and future of traditional Khmer art, and the comeback it is making after years of decline during the Khmer Rouge genocide.

Check out of your hotel in Siem Reap, and drive back to the great lake of Tonle Sap. Take a speedboat to its furthest reaches, funneling into the Sangker River and continuing to the country's second largest city, Battambang, a pleasant riverside town with old European colonial mansions.

Have dinner at one of the casual local restaurants in Battambang.

Wat Ek Phnom is an 11th-century temple ruin set along the Stung Sangker River, surrounded by lush green fields in an agrarian community. Along the way, visit a fascinating crocodile farm, which sees few tourists and is totally authentic.

Fly back to Phom Penh, then drive three hours through the picturesque Cambodian countryside, to the remote beach town of Kep.

In the 1950s and 1960s, Kep was Cambodia's premier beach town, drawing beachgoers to its tranquil shores and sporting the oceanside villas of the Khmer elite. In recent times Kep has come back to itself, but retains an atmospheric remove from the hustle of other Southeast Asian resort towns, with jungled mountains, empty beaches and few tourists.

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Have dinner in town at one of the many small seafood restaurants that serve excellent Khmer dishes featuring the freshest of the day's catch.

In the afternoon, venture into the mountains surrounding Kep, and visit the ghostly former villa of King Norodom Sihanouk, now home to no one except a band of monkeys. Then continue on to the Buddhist cave temple of Phnom Chhnaugk, an ancient carved structure that predates the temples of Angkor Wat.

Have a private sunset cocktail cruise on the Mekong, and afterwards visit Restaurant 102 for Cambodia's most lavish French dining experience.

A visit to the extremely capable local tailors is a must while in Phnom Penh. Choose from a large array of beautiful fabrics, be measured and fitted (two fittings is preferable), and have your custom made clothing within 48 hours. Ambre, where members of the extended royal family buy quality silk in French-Khmer designs, is highly recommended.

Visit the photogenic ruins of King Jayavarman's 12th-century shrine, Ta Prohm, now covered in roots and flowers, and a testament to the forces of nature. Inside, the remarkable stone carvings and refined bas-relief work make this a memorable temple to visit. Nearby is Yeay Peau, another Angkorian temple, which is surrounded with folklore and legend, and is taken care of by local nuns.

End the day with a relaxing and enjoyable meal with a local musician and his family. The musical members of the family give a short performance of Khmer music before your delicious traditional dinner.

Climb aboard a private helicopter for a flight around southern Cambodia. The first stop will be in the unexplored jungles of the Cardamom Mountains, home to tigers and other wild cats, where you can often see animal footprints, though sightings of the exotic beasts themselves are rare. Take the chopper to a remote place where you can see ancient tribal funeral jars discovered by a National Geographic team in 2002. It normally takes 11 days of trekking to reach this magical spot, but you can fly here rapidly and easily.

Spend your last morning visiting Phnom Udong (1.5 hours drive), the royal capital of Cambodia from the 17th to the 19th centuries, where temples, stupas, and even a mosque cover the three lovely hills. There are great views of the Cambodian countryside here, and a walk through the area is well worth your time. Phnom Udong is quiet, particularly on weekdays, and few tourists come here, giving you plenty of time to reflect on the former glory of the Khmer kingdom, and the newfound tranquility of Cambodia's present.

After breakfast, drive to Phnom Penh International Airport and connect to your flight home.