In an age defined by precision and digital efficiency, it might seem counterintuitive that luxury watches powered by mechanical movements—specifically automatic ones—are not only still made but are also highly coveted, often selling for tens or even hundreds of thousands of dollars. After all, a $20 quartz watch from a department store can keep time more accurately than a $50,000 Patek Philippe. So why do collectors, connoisseurs, and everyday enthusiasts willingly pay more for what, on paper, is objectively less accurate?
The answer lies beyond technical specifications. It’s found in history, artistry, emotional resonance, and the enduring appeal of human ingenuity. To understand this paradox, we must first examine the fundamental differences between automatic and quartz movements, then explore the deeper reasons why mechanical watches continue to command reverence—and premium prices—in a world where perfect timekeeping is both cheap and ubiquitous.
Understanding the Core Differences: Automatic vs Quartz
An automatic (or self-winding) mechanical watch operates entirely through physical mechanics. Energy is stored in a mainspring, which is wound either manually or via the natural motion of the wearer’s wrist turning a rotor inside the watch. This energy is then released gradually through a series of gears and springs, regulated by a balance wheel that oscillates at a fixed frequency—typically 4–8 times per second. Each oscillation allows the gear train to advance slightly, moving the hands forward.
In contrast, a quartz watch uses a battery to send an electrical current through a tiny quartz crystal. Due to its piezoelectric properties, the crystal vibrates at a precise frequency—32,768 times per second—when electrified. These vibrations are counted by a microchip, which converts them into one pulse per second to drive the motor that moves the hands.
From a purely functional standpoint, quartz wins decisively. Most quartz watches are accurate to within ±15 seconds per month, while even high-end automatic watches may gain or lose several seconds per day. Yet despite this gap, mechanical watches dominate the luxury market. Why?
The Allure of Craftsmanship and Mechanical Mastery
A high-grade automatic movement is not merely a tool for telling time—it’s a miniature marvel of engineering. Some movements contain over 200 individual parts, each crafted to microscopic tolerances. Components like the escapement, balance spring, and gear train are assembled by hand, often under magnification, requiring years of training to master.
Consider the finishing: surfaces are beveled, polished, and decorated with techniques like perlage (circular graining), Côtes de Genève (striped patterns), and hand-engraving. These details serve no functional purpose—they exist solely to reflect the artisan’s skill and dedication. A well-finished movement is meant to be admired, often through a sapphire case back, transforming the watch into a wearable work of art.
“An automatic movement is like a symphony in a box. Every component plays its part in harmony. You don’t just read the time—you experience the rhythm of it.” — Antoine Morel, Master Watchmaker at Atelier Horlogère Suisse
This level of craftsmanship cannot be replicated by machines churning out quartz movements on assembly lines. While quartz technology is impressive in its own right—especially in terms of accessibility and reliability—it lacks the soul, the imperfection, and the human touch that define mechanical horology.
Emotional Connection and Wearing Experience
Quartz watches are efficient, reliable, and low-maintenance. But they are also inert. They tick without feeling, powered by invisible electrons. An automatic watch, however, has presence. You can feel it on your wrist—the subtle weight, the smooth sweep of the second hand (moving 6–8 times per second versus the quartz’s single tick per second), and the quiet hum of its internal mechanics.
There’s intimacy in winding a watch by hand or knowing that your daily motion keeps it alive. For many owners, this creates a personal bond. The watch becomes a companion, a reflection of routine and rhythm. It requires care: regular wearing, occasional servicing, protection from magnetism and shocks. In return, it rewards with longevity—a well-maintained mechanical watch can run for generations.
This relationship stands in stark contrast to the disposability of most quartz watches. While some high-end quartz models (like those from Longines or Citizen’s Chronomaster line) offer excellent performance and build quality, they still lack the narrative depth of a hand-assembled mechanical movement passed down through families.
Historical Legacy and Cultural Significance
Mechanical watches dominated timekeeping for over four centuries. From marine chronometers that enabled global navigation to pilot’s watches used in WWII dogfights, they played pivotal roles in science, exploration, and warfare. The development of the automatic movement in the early 20th century was a major leap forward—freeing wearers from daily winding while maintaining precision.
The quartz crisis of the 1970s nearly wiped out Swiss mechanical watchmaking. Japanese companies like Seiko flooded the market with affordable, ultra-accurate quartz watches, rendering mechanical timepieces obsolete in the eyes of mainstream consumers. Many historic brands folded. But a few—Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, Vacheron Constantin—held firm, betting that mechanical watches would endure as objects of passion rather than utility.
They were right. By the 1990s, a revival began. Collectors rediscovered the beauty of mechanical movements. Limited editions, complications (like moon phases, perpetual calendars, and tourbillons), and heritage designs re-entered the spotlight. Today, mechanical watches are no longer judged by their accuracy alone but by their storytelling, rarity, and cultural capital.
Comparative Overview: Automatic vs Quartz at a Glance
| Feature | Automatic Mechanical | Quartz |
|---|---|---|
| Power Source | Mainspring (wound by hand or rotor) | Battery |
| Accuracy | ±5 to ±30 seconds per day | ±15 seconds per month |
| Maintenance | Service every 5–7 years | Battery change every 1–2 years |
| Lifespan | Generational (with care) | Limited by circuitry degradation |
| Second Hand Motion | Smooth sweeping | One tick per second |
| Price Range (Entry-Level) | $500+ | $20–$200 |
| Craftsmanship | Hand-assembled, decorated | Mass-produced, functional |
Real Example: The Rolex Submariner vs. the Casio F91W
Consider two iconic timepieces: the Rolex Submariner, an automatic dive watch retailing for around $10,000, and the Casio F91W, a quartz digital watch available for under $20. Both are durable, water-resistant, and widely recognized. Technically, the Casio is far more accurate, lighter, and requires almost zero maintenance.
Yet the Submariner remains a status symbol, worn by professionals, celebrities, and collectors. Its value often appreciates over time. Why?
Because the Submariner represents more than timekeeping. It embodies decades of design evolution, rigorous testing, and in-house manufacturing. Each movement is certified as a “Superlative Chronometer,” meaning it passes stringent accuracy tests—even though it's still less precise than a $10 quartz watch. The Oyster case, the ceramic bezel, the luminescent markers—all speak to meticulous attention to detail. And beneath the dial, the Caliber 3235 movement features a Chronergy escapement, Parachrom hairspring, and a 70-hour power reserve—all achievements in micro-engineering.
For enthusiasts, owning a Submariner isn’t about telling time perfectly. It’s about participating in a legacy of innovation and excellence. It’s a mechanical heirloom in an increasingly digital world.
Practical Guide: Choosing Between Automatic and Quartz
Deciding which type of watch to buy depends on your priorities. Here’s a step-by-step approach to help you make an informed decision:
- Define your primary use: Is this a daily beater, a dress watch, a collector’s piece, or a tool for sports?
- Evaluate maintenance tolerance: Are you willing to service a mechanical watch every few years, or do you prefer a set-it-and-forget-it approach?
- Assess budget: Entry-level automatics start around $500; quartz watches deliver excellent value under $200.
- Consider emotional value: Do you want a machine that feels alive, or a reliable instrument?
- Think long-term: Will you wear it daily, pass it down, or resell it? Mechanical watches often hold or increase value.
Frequently Asked Questions
Isn’t a quartz watch better because it’s more accurate?
Yes, in terms of pure timekeeping, quartz is superior. But accuracy isn’t the only measure of a watch’s worth. Mechanical watches offer craftsmanship, tradition, and emotional resonance that quartz simply doesn’t provide. For many, these intangible qualities outweigh the need for perfect precision.
Do automatic watches need to be wound if not worn?
Yes. Most automatic watches have a power reserve of 40–70 hours. If left unworn beyond that, they will stop. You can restart them by gently winding the crown or using a watch winder to keep them running during storage.
Are quartz watches considered “lesser” by collectors?
Among traditional horology enthusiasts, yes—mechanical watches dominate the collecting world. However, certain high-precision quartz watches (like Grand Seiko’s 9F series or Breitling’s SuperQuartz) are respected for their advanced engineering and finishing. Some collectors also value vintage quartz pieces for their historical significance.
Checklist: What to Consider Before Buying a Mechanical Watch
- ✅ Research the brand’s reputation for movement quality
- ✅ Check if the movement is in-house or outsourced
- ✅ Look for visible finishing details through a display case back
- ✅ Understand the service interval and associated costs
- ✅ Confirm water resistance and durability for intended use
- ✅ Evaluate resale value and collector demand
- ✅ Try it on—weight, size, and comfort matter
Conclusion: Valuing Imperfection in a Perfect World
The fascination with automatic watches in an era of flawless quartz timekeeping reveals something profound about human nature: we are drawn to things that breathe, that require attention, that carry history in their gears. We don’t just want tools—we want stories. We don’t just seek precision—we seek meaning.
Enthusiasts pay more for less accuracy because they’re not buying a clock. They’re investing in artistry, heritage, and the quiet triumph of human ingenuity over necessity. An automatic watch doesn’t just tell time—it reminds us of our place in time. It connects past and present through the steady beat of a balance wheel, a tiny heartbeat on the wrist.








浙公网安备
33010002000092号
浙B2-20120091-4
Comments
No comments yet. Why don't you start the discussion?