Beginner Guide To Building A Mechanical Keyboard Switches And Keycaps Explained

Building your first mechanical keyboard can feel overwhelming. Between switches, keycaps, PCBs, and plate materials, the number of choices seems endless. But at its core, the process is both rewarding and surprisingly accessible. A well-built custom keyboard offers superior typing feel, personalization, and longevity over mass-produced models. This guide breaks down two of the most critical components—switches and keycaps—so you can make informed decisions and start building with confidence.

Understanding Mechanical Keyboard Switches

A switch is the mechanism under each key that registers a keystroke. Unlike membrane keyboards that rely on rubber domes, mechanical switches use individual physical units per key, resulting in better responsiveness, durability, and tactile feedback. Each switch consists of a housing, spring, stem, and contacts. The design of these parts determines how the switch feels and sounds when pressed.

Switches fall into three main categories based on actuation feedback:

• Linear – Smooth press from top to bottom with no bump or click. Ideal for fast typists and gamers who prefer consistent force throughout the keystroke.
• Tactile – Features a noticeable bump mid-press that signals actuation. Offers feedback without noise, making it popular among typists.
• Clicky – Combines a tactile bump with an audible \"click\" sound. Provides strong sensory feedback but may be too loud for shared environments.

Tip: If you're unsure which switch type suits you, consider purchasing a switch tester kit before committing to a full set.

Popular Switch Brands and Models

While Cherry MX pioneered mechanical switches, numerous manufacturers now produce high-quality alternatives. Here’s a comparison of widely used options:

Switch Type	Brand	Feel	Actuation Force	Best For
Cherry MX Red	Cherry	Linear	45cN	Gaming, fast typing
Cherry MX Brown	Cherry	Tactile	45cN	Typing, general use
Cherry MX Blue	Cherry	Clicky	50cN	Typists who like feedback
Gateron Yellow	Gateron	Linear	50cN	Balanced typing and gaming
Kailh Box White	Kailh	Clicky	50cN	Loud, crisp feedback lovers
Zippy	Zealios	Tactile	62cN	Enthusiasts seeking premium feel

“Switch choice isn’t just about preference—it directly impacts comfort during long typing sessions. A mismatched switch can lead to fatigue.” — David Lin, Mechanical Keyboard Designer at Drop

How to Choose the Right Switch

Selecting a switch involves balancing several factors: intended use, typing style, noise tolerance, and hand strength. Gamers often lean toward linear switches for their smooth travel and quick resets. Writers and coders may prefer tactile or clicky switches to reduce typos through physical feedback.

Consider your environment. Clicky switches are satisfying but disruptive in quiet offices or shared living spaces. Linear switches are quieter but offer less feedback, which some find disorienting.

Actuation force (measured in centinewtons, cN) affects how hard you must press. Lighter switches (45cN) suit rapid input, while heavier ones (60cN+) reduce accidental presses and improve control. However, heavier switches can cause finger strain over time if not properly conditioned.

Hot-Swappable PCBs: Flexibility Without Soldering

Many beginner-friendly kits now feature hot-swap sockets. These allow you to insert and remove switches without soldering. This flexibility means you can experiment with different switch types post-build. If you later decide you dislike your initial choice, simply pop them out and replace them.

Tip: Always check whether your keyboard supports hot-swap before buying switches. Non-hot-swap boards require soldering skills and tools.

Keycaps: More Than Just Aesthetics

Keycaps are the visible part of your keyboard—the tops of the keys you press. While they don’t affect electrical function, they significantly influence typing feel, sound, and visual appeal. Most keycaps are made from ABS or PBT plastic, each with distinct characteristics.

• ABS (Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene) – Lightweight, smooth, and commonly found on prebuilt keyboards. Prone to shine over time due to oil absorption from fingers. Often used in double-shot or dye-sublimated printing processes.
• PBT (Polybutylene Terephthalate) – Denser, more durable, and resistant to wear and shine. Has a slightly textured surface that many typists prefer. Typically thicker and produces a deeper, more satisfying sound when typing.

Keycap profiles determine the shape and height of the caps. Common profiles include:

1. OEM – Standard curved profile found on most retail keyboards. Comfortable for beginners.
2. Cherry – Similar to OEM but with less variation between rows. Slightly flatter.
3. DSA – Uniform spherical shape across all keys. Allows for consistent feel and works well with ortholinear layouts.
4. SA – Tall, sculpted, and highly aesthetic. Often used in artisan builds but can be fatiguing for long typing sessions.

Legends and Printing Methods

The legends (letters and symbols) on keycaps are applied using various techniques:

• Dye-sublimation – Ink is embedded into PBT caps. Resistant to fading but limited to dark-on-light designs.
• Double-shot molding – Two layers of plastic are molded together, with legend formed from the inner layer. Extremely durable and common in high-end sets.
• Laser engraving – Removes surface material to reveal underlying color. Used mainly on ABS; prone to showing wear if coated.

Backlight compatibility is another consideration. Some keycaps have translucent legends or hollow stems to allow light to shine through, especially important for RGB builds.

Step-by-Step: Building Your First Keyboard

Now that you understand switches and keycaps, here’s how to assemble a basic mechanical keyboard. This assumes you’re using a pre-designed kit with a case, PCB, plate, and stabilizers included.

1. Prepare your workspace – Use a clean, well-lit area with an anti-static mat if possible. Gather tweezers, switch puller, keycap puller, and screwdrivers.
2. Install the plate – Place the metal or plastic plate into the case base. Align screw holes and secure it loosely until other components are added.
3. Mount the PCB – Carefully place the printed circuit board behind the plate. Ensure USB port alignment and gently fasten screws.
4. Insert switches – For hot-swap boards, press each switch firmly into its socket until it clicks. For non-hot-swap, you’ll need to solder each pin. Test connectivity afterward.
5. Add stabilizers – Larger keys (like spacebar and Enter) require stabilizers to prevent wobbling. Install them according to the kit instructions—typically clip-in or screw-in types.
6. Attach keycaps – Start with smaller keys, then add larger ones. Press straight down to avoid damaging switch stems.
7. Test the board – Connect via USB and use a tool like Keyboard Tester to verify every key registers correctly.
8. Flash firmware (optional) – Customize behavior using QMK or VIA firmware if your PCB supports it. Remap keys, create layers, or adjust debounce settings.

Tip: Label your screw sizes during disassembly. Many kits use multiple lengths for different mounting points.

Real Example: Sarah’s First Build

Sarah, a college student and avid note-taker, wanted a quieter keyboard for her dorm. She chose a 65% compact layout with Gateron Silent Browns—linear switches with dampened springs to reduce noise. Her kit included a hot-swap PCB, so she could test different switches later. She selected a beige PBT keycap set with OEM profile for comfort and durability. After assembly, she flashed QMK firmware to remap the function key to volume control. The result? A personalized, quiet, and efficient typing tool that lasted through finals week without fatigue.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I mix different switch types on one keyboard?

Yes, as long as your PCB supports it. Some builders mix tactile switches on the home row with linear ones elsewhere for enhanced muscle memory. However, inconsistent force curves may take time to adjust to.

Are expensive keycaps worth it?

For daily drivers, yes. High-quality PBT keycaps resist shine, feel better, and last years longer than stock ABS. Artisan keycaps (handmade or sculpted) are mostly decorative and best used sparingly unless budget allows.

Do lubing switches make a difference?

Yes. Lubing reduces friction and scratchiness inside switches, leading to smoother keystrokes and quieter operation. It’s an advanced step, but even a light application can elevate the typing experience.

Checklist: Before You Buy Components

• ✅ Decide on keyboard size (60%, TKL, 75%, full-size)
• ✅ Confirm PCB supports hot-swap or requires soldering
• ✅ Choose switch type based on use case and noise level
• ✅ Select keycap material (PBT preferred for longevity)
• ✅ Verify keycap profile matches your ergonomics preference
• ✅ Check if case accommodates desired plate material (aluminum, steel, polycarbonate)
• ✅ Ensure stabilizers are compatible with your layout
• ✅ Budget for tools: switch puller, keycap puller, tweezers

Conclusion

Building your own mechanical keyboard is more than a technical project—it’s an investment in your daily digital interaction. By understanding switches and keycaps, you gain control over how your keyboard feels, sounds, and performs. Whether you prioritize speed, comfort, aesthetics, or silence, there’s a combination that fits your needs. Start small with a pre-assembled kit, learn through hands-on experience, and gradually explore customization. The satisfaction of typing on a keyboard built by your own hands is unmatched.

🚀 Ready to build your dream keyboard? Pick a switch type, choose a keycap set, and take your first step toward a truly personalized typing experience. Share your build story in the comments!