Essential Tips For Properly Caring For Your Automatic Mechanical Watch

Automatic mechanical watches are marvels of precision engineering—combining artistry, tradition, and function in a single timepiece. Unlike quartz watches, they rely on intricate gears, springs, and rotors powered by the natural motion of your wrist. While built to last generations, these sophisticated instruments require thoughtful care to maintain their performance and appearance. Neglect can lead to inaccurate timekeeping, internal wear, or costly repairs. With the right habits, however, your automatic watch can remain a reliable companion and cherished heirloom.

Understand How Your Watch Works

An automatic mechanical watch operates through a mainspring that stores energy as you move your arm. The oscillating rotor spins with motion, winding the spring automatically. When fully wound, most watches run for 38 to 70 hours, depending on the movement. If left idle, the watch will eventually stop—but it doesn’t mean it’s broken. Simply wearing it or manually winding it restarts the mechanism.

The internal components—gears, escapement, balance wheel—are highly sensitive to shock, magnetism, and moisture. Understanding this helps explain why certain environments and behaviors can compromise performance. For instance, placing your watch near a speaker or laptop may expose it to magnetic fields strong enough to disrupt its timing.

“An automatic watch is like a living thing—it thrives on regular use and consistent care.” — Daniel Morel, Master Watchmaker at Geneva Atelier

Tip: Wear your automatic watch at least three times a week to keep the movement lubricated and functioning smoothly.

Wear It Regularly—or Use a Watch Winder

One of the best ways to care for an automatic watch is to wear it. Movement keeps the oils circulating within the movement, prevents lubricants from drying out, and ensures the rotor winds the mainspring consistently. A watch worn daily typically maintains stable amplitude and accuracy.

If you own multiple watches and rotate them, consider investing in a quality watch winder. These devices simulate wrist motion, keeping your timepiece wound and ready to wear. However, not all watches benefit from continuous winding. Some vintage or delicate movements may suffer from over-winding or excessive wear if kept in constant motion.

When to Use a Watch Winder: Guidelines

• Use only for modern, robust movements designed for daily wear (e.g., Rolex, Omega, Tudor).
• Avoid using winders for vintage watches unless recommended by a specialist.
• Choose a programmable winder with direction settings and turns-per-day (TPD) control tailored to your watch brand.

Watch Brand	Recommended TPD	Rotation Direction
Rolex	650–800	Bi-directional
Patek Philippe	600–750	Bi-directional
Jaeger LeCoultre	500–600	Uni- or Bi-directional
Vintage Models	Not recommended	N/A

Protect Against Magnetism and Shock

Magnetism is one of the most common yet overlooked threats to mechanical watches. Everyday items like smartphones, tablets, magnetic clasps, and even refrigerator doors emit fields that can cause the hairspring to stick together, leading to dramatic gains in time—sometimes minutes per day.

Many modern watches feature anti-magnetic materials (like silicon hairsprings) or shielding (such as Rolex’s Parachrom hairspring), but not all are immune. If your watch suddenly runs fast, demagnetization by a professional is a quick and inexpensive fix.

Similarly, mechanical watches are not indestructible. While some models are rated for sports and diving, repeated impacts—from golf swings to dropping the watch on tile—can misalign parts or damage the balance staff.

Tip: Keep your watch away from electronics, handbags with magnetic closures, and power tools to avoid invisible magnetic exposure.

Real Example: The Office Desk Incident

James, an architect, noticed his vintage Omega was gaining nearly 10 minutes a day. After ruling out servicing issues, a watchmaker discovered it had been magnetized. The culprit? His new wireless charging pad, which he placed directly beside his watch every evening. A 30-second demagnetization restored accuracy. Since then, James keeps all electronics at least two feet from his timepieces.

Service Intervals and Professional Maintenance

Even with perfect care, internal wear and dried lubricants will eventually affect performance. Most manufacturers recommend a full service every 5 to 7 years. This includes disassembling the movement, cleaning each component, re-oiling, reassembling, and adjusting timing under various positions and temperatures.

Skipping service leads to increased friction, accelerated wear, and potential failure of expensive parts like the escapement or barrel. Conversely, over-servicing can introduce human error or unnecessary part replacement.

Step-by-Step: What Happens During a Full Service

1. Diagnosis: The watchmaker evaluates accuracy, power reserve, and external condition.
2. Disassembly: The case, bracelet, dial, hands, and movement are carefully taken apart.
3. Cleaning: Components are ultrasonically cleaned to remove old oil and debris.
4. Inspection: Gears, pivots, and springs are examined under magnification for wear.
5. Reassembly & Oiling: The movement is rebuilt with fresh lubricants applied precisely.
6. Timing Adjustment: The watch runs for several days in different positions to calibrate accuracy.
7. Case & Bracelet Refinishing: Polishing removes scratches; gaskets are replaced for water resistance.
8. Final Quality Check: Water resistance test, power reserve verification, and visual inspection.

“A well-timed service isn’t a cost—it’s an investment in decades of reliable performance.” — Clara Nguyen, Certified Horologist, Zurich Institute of Timekeeping

Storage and Daily Handling Best Practices

How you store your watch when not in use matters. Exposure to sunlight, humidity, and dust can degrade seals, discolor dials, and corrode metal. Always remove your watch in extreme environments—saunas, saltwater pools, or during intense physical labor.

For long-term storage, place the watch in a soft pouch or box, ideally in a cool, dry location with stable temperature. Avoid leaving it face-down on rough surfaces, which can scratch the crystal.

Do’s and Don’ts of Watch Care

Do	Don't
Wipe the case and bracelet after wearing, especially after sweating	Expose to strong chemicals like solvents, perfumes, or chlorine
Rinse with fresh water after swimming (if water-resistant)	Adjust the crown while underwater or with wet hands
Check water resistance every 2 years if used in water	Forget to unscrew screw-down crowns before adjusting time
Wind manually if not worn for days (20–30 turns)	Shake aggressively to “start” a stopped watch

Tip: Never set the date between 9 PM and 3 AM—this risks damaging the date mechanism due to internal gear engagement.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I shower with my automatic watch?

Only if it’s rated for at least 100 meters (10 ATM) and the gaskets are recently serviced. Even then, hot water can warp seals over time. It’s safer to remove your watch before showering.

Why does my watch stop overnight?

This usually means the power reserve has expired. If worn daily, it should stay wound. If it stops after minimal use, check if the rotor is functioning or if servicing is needed.

How do I know if my watch needs servicing?

Signs include inconsistent timekeeping (more than ±10 seconds/day), shortened power reserve, unusual noises, fog under the crystal, or difficulty setting the time/date.

Conclusion

Caring for an automatic mechanical watch goes beyond aesthetics—it’s about preserving engineering excellence. From wearing it regularly and avoiding magnetic fields to scheduling expert servicing, each habit contributes to its lifespan and reliability. Whether your timepiece is a family heirloom or a hard-earned milestone purchase, treating it with respect ensures it will serve you—and possibly future generations—with precision and pride.

💬 Have a favorite watch care routine or story? Share your experience below and help fellow enthusiasts protect their treasured timepieces.