How To Apply Eyeshadow When You Have Hooded Eyes Step By Step

Hooded eyes are one of the most common eye shapes, especially as we age. Characterized by excess skin that folds over the natural crease, they can make traditional eyeshadow application challenging. Without the right technique, shadow may disappear or appear muddy. However, with strategic placement, the right tools, and a few expert tricks, you can create depth, dimension, and definition that enhances your eyes rather than disappears into them. This guide walks through each stage of the process with precision and clarity—designed not just for beginners but for anyone seeking a polished, lasting result.

Understanding Hooded Eyes

Hooded eyes occur when the brow bone extends downward, covering part or all of the eyelid when the eye is open. This means the visible lid space is minimal or nonexistent. The natural crease sits higher than average, often hidden under the fold of skin. While this eye shape is perfectly normal and beautiful, it requires thoughtful makeup application to avoid shadow getting lost or creating a heavy, droopy appearance.

The goal isn’t to change your eye shape, but to work with it—using color, contrast, and placement to create the illusion of depth and lift. Unlike almond or round eyes, where shadow can be applied directly into the crease, hooded eyes benefit from building color slightly above the natural fold so it remains visible when the eye is open.

Tip: Always apply eyeshadow in natural light when possible. Lighting affects how pigments appear and helps prevent over-application.

Essential Tools and Products

Using the right brushes and formulas makes a dramatic difference. Here’s what you’ll need:

• Precision blending brush: A small, tapered brush (like a dome-shaped shader) for controlled pigment placement.
• Fluffy crease brush: Medium-sized, soft bristles for seamless blending.
• Flat shader brush: For packing color onto the lid.
• Tapered liner brush: Useful for smudging or adding depth at the outer corner.
• Mattes and shimmers: Matte shades for contouring, shimmer or satin finishes for highlighting.
• Eyeshadow primer: Prevents creasing and ensures longevity.
• Concealer or base: To prime the lid and create a clean canvas.

Avoid overly large brushes that lack control. Precision is key—especially when working above the natural crease.

Step-by-Step Application Guide

Follow this sequence for a balanced, lifted effect that stays put throughout the day.

1. Prime the lids. Apply a thin layer of eyeshadow primer or skin-toned concealer across the entire mobile lid and up toward the brow bone. Blend evenly and set with a translucent powder or a matte base shade. This prevents creasing and evens out discoloration.
2. Map your crease above the fold. With a fluffy brush, use a medium-toned matte brown. Close your eyes and feel for where the lid begins to fold. Now, open your eyes. The goal is to place the shadow just above that fold—where it will remain visible. Use windshield wiper motions to build the color gradually.
3. Define the outer V. Using a smaller brush, deepen the outer corner with a darker matte shade (taupe, espresso, or deep plum). Focus on the outer third of the eye and blend inward in a diagonal line upward toward the end of the eyebrow. Avoid dragging color straight back—it can drag the eye down.
4. Apply shimmer to the center of the lid. Using a flat shader brush, press a reflective or metallic shade only on the central portion of the visible lid. Keep it compact—don’t extend too far outward or inward. This catches light and creates the illusion of a larger lid space.
5. Blend meticulously. Go back with a clean fluffy brush and soften any harsh edges. The transition between shades should be smooth, with no visible lines. Spend extra time where the dark outer color meets the mid-tone crease.
6. Add subtle lower lash definition. Use a small pencil brush to apply the crease color along the outer third of the lower lash line. Softly blend inward. Avoid lining the entire lower lid—it can weigh the eye down.
7. Highlight the inner corner and brow bone. Use a light, pearly shade to brighten the inner corners. Apply a matte or satin highlight just under the brow arch to lift the eye. Don’t overdo it—subtlety is more effective.
8. Set and refine. Check your work with your eyes both open and closed. If shadow has migrated into the fold, gently press a tissue over the area to remove excess fallout. Re-blend if necessary.

“With hooded eyes, visibility is everything. Place your darkest tones where they’ll be seen—not buried under the lid.” — Lila Torres, Celebrity Makeup Artist

Do’s and Don’ts for Hooded Eye Makeup

Do	Don't
Apply shadow above the natural crease for visibility	Apply all shadow below the fold where it disappears
Use matte shades to define and contour	Rely solely on shimmer, which can emphasize texture
Blend colors upward and outward to lift the eye	Blend downward, which can create a droopy effect
Keep shimmer concentrated on the center of the lid	Apply shimmer all over the lid, increasing glare and bulk
Use a primer to prevent creasing	Skip primer, risking patchiness and fading

Tip: When testing eyeshadow placement, blink frequently. If the color smudges or transfers easily, it’s likely too close to the moving lid and may crease.

Real-World Example: Transforming a Day Look to Evening

Consider Maria, a 42-year-old professional with naturally hooded eyes. During the day, she wears minimal makeup—just mascara and tinted moisturizer. For an evening event, she wants to enhance her eyes without looking overdone.

She starts with a matte taupe shade blended above her natural crease using a small fluffy brush. Then, she deepens the outer corner with a warm chocolate brown, focusing on the diagonal lift. She presses a rose-gold shimmer onto the center of her lid and highlights the inner corners with a champagne tone. After blending thoroughly, the result is a defined, wide-awake look that complements her eye shape. Her colleagues later comment that her eyes “look brighter and more open”—exactly the effect she wanted.

This transformation wasn’t about adding more product, but about smarter placement. By respecting the structure of her hooded lids, Maria achieved elegance without exaggeration.

Choosing the Right Eyeshadow Palette

Not all palettes work well for hooded eyes. Look for those that include:

• A range of matte transition shades (light to medium)
• At least one deep matte shade for definition
• A shimmer or metallic option with strong payoff
• Colors that complement your skin tone and eye color

Warm neutrals (taupes, caramels, soft browns) are universally flattering. Cool grays and plums can add sophistication, while bronzes and golds enhance warmth. Avoid overly pale shades on the lid—they can make hooded eyes appear flatter. Similarly, steer clear of chunky glitter, which tends to settle into creases and distract from the overall shape.

Quick Checklist: Hooded Eye Shadow Routine

Checklist:

• ✅ Prime lids with concealer or dedicated primer
• ✅ Set base with neutral matte shade
• ✅ Apply transition shade above the natural crease
• ✅ Deepen outer V with a darker matte color
• ✅ Press shimmer only on center of visible lid
• ✅ Blend thoroughly with clean brush
• ✅ Add lower lash accent on outer third
• ✅ Highlight inner corner and under brow
• ✅ Check visibility with eyes open

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I wear bold colors with hooded eyes?

Absolutely. Bold shades like emerald, navy, or wine can be stunning. Apply them using the same principles: place them where they’ll be visible—typically above the fold or on the outer edge. Pair vibrant hues with neutral transition shades to keep the look balanced.

Why does my eyeshadow disappear when I open my eyes?

This usually happens because the shadow was applied below the natural hood of the eyelid. The solution is to shift your crease line higher—above the fold—so the color remains exposed when your eye is open. Also, ensure you’re not placing shimmer too close to the brow bone, which can reflect light and wash out definition.

How can I prevent creasing throughout the day?

Crepasing occurs when oils break down makeup in the lid's fold. To minimize it, always use an eyeshadow primer, set your base with powder, and avoid creamy formulas unless they’re specifically designed for long wear. Carrying a small Q-tip allows for quick touch-ups if needed.

Final Tips for Long-Lasting Results

Consistency in technique matters more than expensive products. Practice the placement of your crease shade daily—even without full makeup—to train your hand-eye coordination. Over time, you’ll develop muscle memory for where to deposit color for maximum impact.

Also, consider your brow shape. Well-groomed, arched brows can visually lift hooded eyes, enhancing the effect of your eyeshadow. Avoid overly flat or low brows, which can further compress the eye area.

Finally, embrace your unique features. Hooded eyes are not a flaw to correct—they’re a distinctive characteristic. The right makeup doesn’t hide them; it celebrates them by bringing out their depth and intensity.

Conclusion

Applying eyeshadow on hooded eyes doesn’t require complicated hacks—just a refined approach to placement and blending. By lifting the crease, concentrating shimmer strategically, and avoiding common pitfalls, you can achieve a polished, dimensional look that lasts. Whether you're preparing for a meeting or a night out, these steps empower you to enhance your natural beauty with confidence.

💬 Have a hooded eye trick that works for you? Share your experience in the comments and help others master their look!