How To Highlight Under Eyes Without Accentuating Dark Circles

Highlighting the under-eye area can instantly brighten your face and give the illusion of well-rested skin. But when done incorrectly, it can backfire—drawing attention to fine lines, puffiness, or existing darkness. The key isn’t just about applying product; it’s about understanding your skin tone, choosing the right formula, and mastering technique. Done well, highlighting enhances your natural radiance without emphasizing flaws.

The under-eye area is delicate and often has unique concerns: thin skin, visible capillaries, shadows from bone structure, or mild discoloration. Traditional highlighting methods that work on cheekbones or brow bones may not translate well here. This guide breaks down the science and art behind strategic under-eye illumination—so you achieve a fresh, lit-from-within glow, not a cakey, highlighted disaster.

Understanding Why Highlighters Can Accentuate Dark Circles

Many people apply concealer and highlighter with the same goal: brightness. However, these products function differently. Concealer corrects tone and evens out pigment, while highlighter reflects light. When used under the eyes, traditional shimmering or overly light highlighters sit on top of creases and texture, drawing the eye to where light bounces most—often the center of the under-eye trough. This creates contrast against the outer corners, making shadows appear deeper by comparison.

Additionally, formulas matter. Thick, opaque, or shimmery products tend to settle into fine lines, amplifying texture. If the shade is too white or cool-toned for your complexion, it can create a grayish cast next to warmer undereye skin—mimicking or worsening the look of dark circles.

“Under-eye highlighting isn’t about covering darkness—it’s about redirecting light to create dimension and alertness.” — Lila Chen, Celebrity Makeup Artist

Tip: Avoid pearl-infused or glittery highlighters directly under the inner corner or lower lash line—they catch every subtle dip and wrinkle.

Choosing the Right Shade and Formula

Not all highlighters are suitable for the under-eye area. The ideal product should be luminous, not glittery; blendable, not tacky; and one to two shades lighter than your skin tone—but never chalky.

Shade selection depends on your undertone. Using color theory, you can neutralize darkness without over-lightening:

• Fair skin with pink or neutral undertones: Opt for soft champagne or pale peach-based correctors followed by a sheer, warm ivory illuminator.
• Medium skin with golden or olive undertones: Choose rose-gold or honey-toned correctors with a satin-finish highlight in a matching warmth.
• Deep skin tones: Rich bronze, deep copper, or mahogany correctors work best. Avoid anything ashy. Use a liquid illuminator with red or gold flecks for a healthy glow.

Formula types compared:

Formula	Best For	Risk of Emphasizing Texture	Application Tip
Liquid Illuminator	All skin types, especially dry or mature skin	Low (if sheer)	Mix with foundation or apply sparingly with fingertip
Cream Highlighter	Normal to oily skin	Moderate (can crease if over-applied)	Use a small brush or pat gently with ring finger
Powder Highlighter	Oily skin, experienced users	High (settles into lines)	Avoid direct application under eyes; use only on high points like cheekbones
Color-Correcting Pen	Targeted correction before highlight	Very low	Apply first, then blend with concealer

For those with persistent darkness due to pigmentation or vascular visibility, consider a two-step approach: correct, then illuminate—not cover, then highlight.

Step-by-Step: How to Highlight Under Eyes Without Drawing Attention to Darkness

This method focuses on optical illusion, blending, and precision. Follow these steps for a naturally brightened effect:

1. Prep the under-eye area. Start with clean, moisturized skin. Apply an eye cream and wait two minutes for absorption. Dry or flaky skin will cause patchiness. For oily skin, use a lightweight gel primer to smooth texture.
2. Correct discoloration first. Use a color-correcting concealer based on your concern:
   • Blue or purple tones: Counteract sallowness in medium-deep skin.
   • Peppermint or yellow: Neutralize purple hues in fair skin.
   • Orange or salmon: Cancel out deep blue-gray shadows in medium to deep tones.
   Dab a tiny amount only where darkness appears—usually the inner or outer corners—not across the entire under-eye.
3. Apply skin-tone concealer. Use a creamy, buildable concealer that matches your face exactly. Apply in a triangular shape under each eye, focusing on the hollows. Blend outward with a damp sponge or fingertip. Do not pull or drag the skin.
4. Select your illuminator. Choose a translucent or tinted liquid with a wet-look sheen, not sparkle. A dropper or pen format gives better control.
5. Apply highlight strategically. Place a pinpoint of illuminator only at the inner corner of the eye and just below the highest point of your cheekbone. Avoid swiping it across the under-eye bag or trough. The goal is to draw light upward, not emphasize horizontal zones.
6. Blend gently. Use your ring finger (it applies the least pressure) to press and roll the product outward. Never swipe back and forth—it disrupts layers and causes creasing.
7. Set only where necessary. If you have oily skin, lightly dust a translucent powder under the outer corner or along the orbital bone. Avoid setting the highlighted area unless absolutely needed—powder dulls shine.
8. Final check in natural light. Look straight ahead in daylight. If the under-eye looks shiny, patchy, or draws more attention than your eyes, reduce product or re-blend.

Tip: Less is more. You should feel the glow, not see a stripe of white under your eye.

Common Mistakes That Make Dark Circles Worse

Even with quality products, technique missteps can undermine your efforts. Here are frequent errors and how to avoid them:

• Using a shade too light: Creates a stark contrast that reads as a “stripe” rather than a seamless glow. Stick to no more than two shades above your base.
• Applying highlighter in a straight line: This mimics the shape of dark circles. Instead, dot and diffuse.
• Skipping color correction: Trying to lighten severe darkness with a bright concealer alone results in a grayish veil. Correct first, then conceal.
• Over-setting with powder: Matte finishes eliminate glow and can make skin look flat or older. Only set areas prone to creasing.
• Ignoring lighting conditions: Indoor lighting hides texture. Always assess your makeup near a window during the day.

Do’s and Don’ts Summary

Do	Don’t
Use a peach or salmon corrector for blue-based dark circles	Use white or icy highlighters on deep skin tones
Apply illuminator only to high points (inner corner, cheek peak)	Swipe highlighter across the entire under-eye area
Blend with tapping motions, not dragging	Pull or stretch the delicate eye area
Choose hydrating, serum-like formulas	Use thick, waxy sticks that settle into lines
Layer sheerly and build only if needed	Apply multiple thick layers of concealer and highlighter

Real-Life Example: Transforming Tired-Looking Skin

Sophia, a 34-year-old teacher, struggled with under-eye darkness despite good sleep and hydration. She had tried various concealers and highlighters but found that her makeup made the area look heavier by midday. After consulting a dermatologist, she learned her darkness was partly genetic—due to thin skin revealing underlying vessels—and partly lifestyle-related from seasonal allergies.

She revised her routine: starting with a hydrating eye cream, using a salmon corrector only on the bluish outer corners, then applying a skin-matching concealer in triangles. Instead of her old glittery stick highlighter, she switched to a liquid illuminator applied solely at the inner corners. Within days, colleagues commented she looked “more awake.” The change wasn’t about covering more skin—it was about directing light smarter.

Her biggest realization? “I stopped fighting my anatomy and started working with it. I don’t need to erase my under-eyes—I just want them to look rested.”

Essential Checklist for Flawless Under-Eye Highlighting

Follow this checklist every time you apply under-eye makeup to avoid common pitfalls:

1. ✅ Hydrate the eye area with a nourishing cream
2. ✅ Identify your dark circle’s undertone (blue, brown, purple)
3. ✅ Use a corrector that counteracts the discoloration
4. ✅ Apply concealer only where needed—avoid overlining
5. ✅ Choose a dewy, non-shimmery illuminator
6. ✅ Apply highlighter only at the inner corner and cheek apex
7. ✅ Blend with fingertips using a pressing motion
8. ✅ Set selectively, avoiding the highlighted zone
9. ✅ Check appearance in natural daylight
10. ✅ Touch up minimally—carry a hydrating mist, not extra concealer

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I use regular highlighter under my eyes?

Most traditional highlighters contain shimmer or intense pigments that settle into fine lines and emphasize texture. It’s safer to use a dedicated illuminating serum or a cream formula designed for the face, applied very sparingly. Avoid anything with visible glitter particles.

What if I have both dark circles and puffiness?

In cases of puffiness, avoid highlighting the center of the under-eye mound. Focus correction and light placement on the inner corner and just below the outer edge of the eye, where volume is lower. This lifts the eye shape without amplifying swelling. Cold spoons or eye rollers in the morning can also reduce temporary puffiness before makeup.

Is there a drugstore product that works well for this?

Yes. Many affordable options perform excellently. Look for:

• LA Girl Pro Conceal Brighten Correctors (peach, orange)
• Maybelline Facestudio Master Chrome Bounce Liquid Highlighter (sheer, blendable)
• E.l.f. Halo Glow Liquid Filter (mixes with foundation or wears alone)

These offer professional-level payoff without irritation or heavy texture.

Final Thoughts: Illuminate, Don’t Overcorrect

The goal of under-eye highlighting isn’t perfection—it’s enhancement. Your features have natural contours, and shadows are part of facial dimension. Rather than erasing every trace of darkness, aim to balance tone and reflect light where it brings vitality. With the right products and mindful application, you can achieve a refreshed, radiant look that feels authentic, not overdone.

Makeup should serve you, not stress you. Experiment with small adjustments: try a different corrector shade, switch to a serum highlighter, or simply change where you place the light. Over time, you’ll develop a personalized method that works with your skin, not against it.

💬 Have a tip that transformed your under-eye routine? Share your experience in the comments—your insight could help someone finally conquer their makeup struggle.