Identifying Vintage Levis How To Spot The Big E Tag

For denim enthusiasts and vintage clothing collectors, few garments carry the legacy and cultural weight of classic Levi’s jeans. Among the most sought-after markers of authenticity in vintage Levi’s is the “Big E” red tab—a small but significant detail that can dramatically affect a pair’s value and historical importance. Understanding how to identify this feature, along with other key indicators of era and construction, is essential for anyone navigating the world of vintage denim. This guide breaks down exactly what the Big E tab is, when it was used, and how to verify its presence alongside other authenticating features.

What Is the Big E Red Tab?

The red tab on the back right pocket of Levi’s jeans has been a signature design element since 1936. However, not all red tabs are created equal. The “Big E” refers to a specific version of the tab where the word “LEVI’S” is printed in large, bold capital letters—with a noticeably prominent “E.” This style was used exclusively during a narrow window: from 1936 until approximately 1971.

After 1971, Levi’s redesigned the tab, making the lettering smaller and more compact. The “E” became less pronounced, leading collectors to refer to the earlier version as the “Big E” and the later one as the “Small E.” The transition wasn’t instantaneous; some overlap occurred due to factory stock usage, but generally, a Big E tab indicates a pre-1971 garment.

Tip: Always check the red tab under natural light or magnification—faded stitching or wear can obscure the size and shape of the letters.

Timeline of the Big E Era

The lifespan of the Big E tab aligns with major shifts in American manufacturing, fashion, and branding. Knowing the timeline helps contextualize not just the label, but also the jeans themselves.

1. 1936–1955: Introduction of the red tab with “LEVI’S” in large block letters. Early versions may have slight variations in font thickness and spacing.
2. 1955–1966: Standardization of the Big E across most 501 and workwear models. This period includes the post-war boom and the rise of denim as casual wear.
3. 1966–1971: Final years of the Big E. By 1966, Levi’s began using arcuate stitching on both pockets (previously only on the right), and the leather patch started transitioning from two horses to a single horse design.
4. 1971 onward: Official switch to the Small E tab. This change coincided with increased mass production and global expansion.

It’s important to note that while 1971 is widely accepted as the cutoff year, some pairs manufactured in early 1972 may still bear the Big E due to leftover materials. However, such cases are rare and require additional verification through other period-specific traits.

How to Authenticate Vintage Levi’s Beyond the Red Tab

While the Big E is a strong indicator, relying solely on the tab can lead to misidentification—especially given the prevalence of reproductions and mislabeled items online. A thorough authentication process involves examining multiple construction elements.

1. Back Leather Patch

The leather patch on the back waistband provides critical clues. During the Big E era, Levi’s used a two-horse team pulling apart a pair of jeans to symbolize the strength of their riveted construction. This “double horse” design was used until 1966. After that, it was replaced with a single horse.

• Pre-1966: Two-horse design, often with “LEVI STRAUSS & CO. SAN FRANCISCO” stamped in capital letters.
• Post-1966: Single horse, sometimes with country of manufacture added later.

2. Pocket Fading and Arcuate Stitching

Vintage denim develops unique fading patterns over time, especially around the coin pocket. Look for natural honeycombs behind the knees and whiskering at the hips. Additionally, the arcuate (curved) stitching on the back pockets evolved slightly:

• Pre-1955: Arcuate only on the right pocket.
• Post-1955: Arcuate on both pockets.

3. Rivets and Button

Early Levi’s used copper rivets with a single indentation. Starting in the late 1960s, many models switched to double-indented rivets. The top button should read “LEVI’S” with a distinctive font—reproductions often get this wrong.

4. Fabric and Selvage

True vintage Levi’s from the Big E era were made on shuttle looms, producing fabric with tight selvage edges. If you can inspect the cuff (or interior seam), look for a clean, self-finished edge with a white or red selvedge ID. Japanese or European reproductions may mimic this, but original U.S.-made denim has a distinct hand-feel and weight (typically 14–16 oz).

Feature	Big E Era (Pre-1971)	Post-Big E (1971+)
Red Tab	Large “E” in “LEVI’S”	Smaller, condensed lettering
Leather Patch	Two-horse design (until 1966)	Single horse or no horse
Arcuate Stitching	Right pocket only (pre-1955); both after	Both pockets
Rivets	Copper, single-indent	Double-indent or changed material
Fabric Origin	U.S.-milled cotton, shuttle loom	Global sourcing, projectile looms

“Authenticity in vintage denim isn’t about one feature—it’s the sum of details. The Big E is a flag, but the construction tells the real story.” — Daniel Buck, Denim Archivist and Founder of Rivet & Hide

Step-by-Step Guide to Verifying a Big E Pair

Follow this methodical approach when evaluating a potential vintage Levi’s find—whether at a thrift store, estate sale, or online marketplace.

1. Inspect the red tab under good lighting. Confirm the “E” in “LEVI’S” is tall and wide, matching known Big E proportions.
2. Check the leather patch. Is it embossed with the two-horse design? If so, and the red tab has a Big E, you’re likely looking at a pre-1966 piece.
3. Examine the stitching on the back pockets. Are both pockets adorned with arcuate stitching? If only the right one has it, the jeans are likely pre-1955.
4. Look at the rivets. Use a magnifier if needed. Original copper rivets will have a soft patina and a single dimple in the center.
5. Assess the fabric. Feel the weight and look for selvage if possible. Vintage denim is stiffer and denser than modern stretch blends.
6. Review overall wear patterns. Natural fading follows body movement—avoid pieces with artificial distressing or inconsistent wear.
7. Cross-reference with known catalogs or databases. Resources like the Levi’s Vintage Clothing line or collector forums can help confirm model numbers and production years.

Tip: When buying online, ask sellers for high-resolution photos of the red tab, leather patch, and interior seams. Avoid listings with blurry or cropped images.

Mini Case Study: The eBay Find That Was Too Good to Be True

In 2022, a collector in Portland listed a pair of 1950s-style 501s with a Big E tab and two-horse patch. The price was low—just $85—for what appeared to be pristine condition. Several bidders expressed interest, but one buyer paused before purchasing. He requested additional photos, specifically of the rivets and coin pocket stitching.

Upon closer inspection, the rivets had a perfect, uniform shine inconsistent with 70-year-old copper. The stitching around the pocket was too even, lacking the slight irregularities of vintage sewing machines. Most telling, the leather patch had a slightly off-center stamp and a synthetic smell—indicative of modern faux leather.

The buyer reached out to a forum dedicated to vintage denim, where experts confirmed: the jeans were a high-quality reproduction, likely from a Japanese homage brand. The Big E tab had been replicated accurately, but the rest of the construction didn’t match mid-century standards. The listing was reported, and the auction ended without a sale.

This case underscores a crucial point: the Big E is a valuable clue, but not a standalone proof. Authenticity requires a holistic assessment.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can a Big E tab be faked?

Yes. Reproduction manufacturers and counterfeiters often replicate the Big E tab precisely because of its desirability. Some use heat-transfer labels or embroidered patches that mimic the original woven fabric. Always verify supporting details like the leather patch, stitching, and fabric type.

Do all Big E Levi’s have high value?

Not necessarily. While the Big E increases collectibility, value depends on condition, rarity, and model. A heavily worn pair with repairs may be worth less than a well-preserved but post-1971 collectible. Original 1940s 501s with military specifications, for example, command higher prices than common 1960s work pants.

Were Big E tabs used on all Levi’s models?

No. The red tab was primarily used on 501s and other riveted trousers. Some work jackets and overalls from the era may have similar branding, but the Big E is most associated with the 501XX—the original shrink-to-fit denim jean. Other models like the 505 or 517, introduced later, did not carry the Big E into production.

Checklist: Authenticating Your Vintage Levi’s

• ✅ Red tab present with large, bold “E” in “LEVI’S”
• ✅ Two-horse leather patch (if pre-1966)
• ✅ Copper rivets with single indentation
• ✅ Arcuate stitching on correct pockets based on era
• ✅ Heavy, non-stretch denim with visible selvage (if accessible)
• ✅ Natural fading and wear consistent with age
• ✅ No signs of modern manufacturing (e.g., chain stitching, synthetic threads)
• ✅ Matching model number and era (e.g., 501XX for pre-1970s)

Conclusion: Trust the Details, Not Just the Label

Spotting a Big E tab on a pair of Levi’s is exciting—it’s a direct link to a golden era of American denim. But true expertise lies in going beyond the surface. The most valuable vintage pieces are those authenticated not by a single trait, but by a convergence of historical accuracy, material integrity, and craftsmanship.

Whether you’re building a curated collection or simply love the heritage of well-made clothing, take the time to learn the nuances. Examine every stitch, study the evolution of the red tab, and appreciate the decades of culture stitched into each pair. The Big E is more than a logo—it’s a symbol of durability, authenticity, and timeless style.

💬 Found a pair with a Big E tab? Share your discovery or ask for an opinion in collector communities. Your next great find could be just one detail away.