Mastering The Art Of Painting 3d Printed Gundam Figurines Step By Step Techniques For Stunning Results

Painting a 3D printed Gundam figurine is more than just applying color—it’s a craft that blends precision, patience, and artistic expression. Whether you’re printing your own model from resin or filament, the surface demands special attention before it can shine like an official Bandai kit. With layer lines, support marks, and uneven textures common in 3D prints, achieving a clean, vibrant finish requires a structured approach. This guide walks through every phase—from post-processing to final sealing—so you can transform a rough print into a display-worthy masterpiece.

Understanding Your Print Material

The first step in successful painting lies in knowing what you're working with. Most hobbyists use either FDM (filament) or resin (SLA/DLP) printers, each producing distinct surface characteristics.

FDM prints typically show visible layer lines and may require more extensive sanding. Resin prints offer finer detail but often retain cured resin residue and micro-imperfections from supports. Both benefit from thorough cleaning and priming, but their prep paths differ slightly.

Regardless of material, always wash and cure resin prints properly. For FDM, ensure warping or stringing hasn’t compromised joint areas. A stable, clean base ensures paint adheres evenly and lasts longer.

Tip: Always wear nitrile gloves when handling uncured resin and work in a well-ventilated area during cleanup.

Post-Processing: The Foundation of a Flawless Finish

No amount of paint can hide poor preparation. Surface flaws magnify under gloss finishes and lighting. A meticulous post-processing routine is non-negotiable.

1. Remove Supports Carefully: Use flush cutters to avoid gouging the model. For resin prints, scrape stubborn attachment points gently with a hobby knife.
2. Sand Gradually: Start with 200–400 grit sandpaper to level major imperfections, then progress to 600, 1000, and finally 1500 grit for a smooth touch. Wet sanding reduces dust and prevents clogging.
3. Fill Gaps if Needed: Use modeling putty or superglue mixed with baking soda to fill deep seams or holes. Sand smooth once cured.
4. Clean Thoroughly: Wipe down with isopropyl alcohol (70% or higher) to remove oils, dust, and leftover residue.

Take time here. Rushing leads to visible texture differences later. Test smoothness by running a finger lightly over the surface—it should feel uniformly even.

Priming: The Bridge Between Plastic and Paint

Primer isn't optional. It seals the surface, evens out absorption, and provides tooth for paint adhesion. Skipping this step risks peeling, patchiness, or inconsistent sheen.

Use a high-quality spray primer designed for plastics, such as Mr. Surfacer 1000 or Tamiya Surface Primer. Apply in thin, even coats from 8–10 inches away. Let each coat dry completely (usually 15–30 minutes) before adding the next. Two to three light coats are better than one heavy one, which can sag or obscure detail.

If minor flaws appear after priming, spot-sand with 1000+ grit paper, re-prime the area, and proceed only when the surface looks uniform under bright light.

Step	Action	Recommended Tools/Materials
Support Removal	Cut and file away support structures	Flush cutters, hobby knife, sanding sticks
Sanding	Smooth layer lines and seams	Wet/dry sandpaper (200–1500 grit)
Cleaning	Remove debris and oils	Isopropyl alcohol, lint-free cloth
Priming	Seal and prepare surface	Spray plastic primer, well-ventilated space

Painting Techniques for Precision and Depth

Now comes the transformation. Whether using airbrush, rattle cans, or fine-tipped acrylics, technique determines outcome.

For large, flat surfaces like armor panels, an airbrush delivers the smoothest gradient. Thin your paints appropriately—acrylics with water or flow improver, lacquers with proper thinner. Over-thinning causes streaks; under-thinning leads to clogging.

Detail work benefits from 0.3mm airbrush nozzles or high-grade brushes (size 0 or smaller). When hand-brushing, load the brush lightly and use multiple translucent layers rather than one thick stroke.

Consider color theory. Gundam models often feature bold primary colors with metallic accents. Use complementary undercoats—e.g., a dark purple under red enhances depth. For metallic parts, apply a grey or white base first to boost reflectivity.

“Layering is everything. A well-built paint job isn’t about coverage—it’s about controlling light through subtle transitions.” — Hiro Tanaka, Master Model Painter & Exhibitor at Wonder Festival

Tip: Label your airbrush cap with masking tape indicating the last color used to prevent cross-contamination.

Step-by-Step Painting Process

1. Base Coat: Apply even layers of main colors. Allow 30–60 minutes between coats.
2. Panel Line Detailing: Use a panel liner (black or dark brown) to trace recessed lines. Wipe excess immediately with a cotton swab.
3. Dry Brushing: Lightly drag a nearly dry brush loaded with a lighter shade across raised surfaces to highlight armor edges.
4. Weathering (Optional): Add realism with chipping effects using a stippling brush or sponge, or simulate grime with diluted brown washes in crevices.
5. Decals: Apply with decal softener for better conformity. Seal with a gloss coat before and after placement.

Sealing and Final Protection

All your effort is vulnerable without proper protection. A topcoat shields against UV damage, scratches, and fingerprints.

Choose based on desired finish:

• Gloss: Ideal before decals and for metallic parts.
• Semi-Gloss: Balanced look, suitable for most armor sections.
• Matte: Realistic for non-reflective surfaces but shows dust easily.

Apply 2–3 light coats of polyurethane or acrylic clear coat. Hold the can in motion to avoid pooling. Let cure for at least 24 hours before handling. For maximum durability, consider a final buff with automotive polish on matte or semi-gloss finishes using a soft cloth.

Real Example: Transforming a Resin RX-78-2 Print

A hobbyist in Osaka recently shared his journey restoring a poorly printed RX-78-2 Gundam. Initial inspection revealed significant stair-stepping on the chest plate and fragile shoulder joints. He spent six hours removing supports and sanding up to 2000 grit. After priming with Mr. Surfacer 1200, he noticed slight sinkage in the knee joint—he filled it with two-part epoxy, sanded again, and re-primed.

He used an Iwata airbrush for base colors, applying three thin layers of Tamiya TS-13 Red. Panel lining was done with MIG Productions’ Dark Wash, followed by careful highlighting with dry-brushed silver. A gloss topcoat allowed decals to settle seamlessly. Final matte clear coat unified the finish. The result? A display piece indistinguishable from a factory-assembled kit.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I use regular craft acrylics on 3D printed models?

While possible, artist-grade acrylics lack the adhesion and durability of model-specific paints. They may crack or peel over time. Use purpose-made hobby paints like Tamiya, Vallejo, or Citadel for best results.

How long should I wait between paint layers?

Wait at least 20–30 minutes for acrylics to dry to the touch. Full curing takes 24 hours. Rushing layers risks lifting or wrinkling, especially with solvent-based topcoats.

Do I need an airbrush, or can I brush-paint effectively?

An airbrush gives superior smoothness, but skilled brushwork achieves excellent results. Use synthetic brushes, thin paint properly, and build color gradually. Many competition-level models are entirely hand-painted.

Final Checklist Before Display

• ✅ All support marks removed and sanded smooth
• ✅ Surface cleaned with isopropyl alcohol
• ✅ Primed and inspected under bright light
• ✅ Base colors applied in thin, even layers
• ✅ Details enhanced with panel lining and dry brushing
• ✅ Decals applied and sealed
• ✅ Topcoat applied and fully cured
• ✅ Final inspection for dust, runs, or missed spots

Conclusion: Elevate Your Craft One Layer at a Time

Painting a 3D printed Gundam isn’t just about replicating a design—it’s about claiming ownership of the process, from digital file to physical art. Every stage, from sanding to sealing, contributes to the final impact. Mastery doesn’t come overnight, but with disciplined technique and attention to detail, your models will evolve from rough prototypes to gallery-worthy displays.

🚀 Start your next build with confidence—apply these steps, share your progress online, and inspire others in the community.