Mastering The Figure 8 Knot Step By Step Guide For Safety And Strength

The figure 8 knot—also known as the figure eight follow-through or rethreaded figure eight—is one of the most reliable and widely used knots in climbing, sailing, and search-and-rescue operations. Valued for its strength, ease of inspection, and resistance to slipping under load, it’s a fundamental skill every outdoor enthusiast should master. Unlike many knots that loosen over time, the figure 8 maintains integrity even after repeated stress, making it ideal for life-critical applications.

Despite its simplicity, improper tying can compromise safety. A poorly dressed knot, insufficient tail length, or misrouting can reduce strength by up to 40%. This guide breaks down the correct method, common pitfalls, and real-world applications so you can tie with confidence and precision.

Why the Figure 8 Knot Matters

The figure 8 knot is the gold standard for attaching a rope to a climbing harness. Its structure distributes force evenly across the knot, minimizing weak points. When tied correctly, it retains about 75–80% of the rope’s original tensile strength—higher than many alternatives like the bowline without a backup.

Its visual symmetry makes it easy to inspect. A properly tied figure 8 resembles a “8” with two parallel strands running through it. If the lines cross unevenly or the shape looks distorted, something is wrong. This immediate feedback loop is crucial when seconds count.

“Every climber should be able to tie a figure 8 in the dark. It’s not just technique—it’s survival.” — Sarah Jennings, AMGA Certified Rock Guide

Step-by-Step Guide to Tying the Figure 8 Follow-Through

This version of the knot allows you to secure the rope directly to your harness. It’s stronger and more reliable than using a carabiner alone.

1. Leave a long tail: Pull about 60 cm (24 inches) of rope from the end, depending on your height and harness size. More is safer; too little risks failure.
2. Form a bight and twist into a loop: Fold the working end to create a bend. Twist it once to form a loop resembling a “6” or “9,” depending on orientation.
3. Trace the original figure 8: With the working end, follow the path of the initial knot backward. Go under, around, and back through the loops exactly as the standing part does.
4. Thread through the harness: Before completing the knot, pass the working end through your harness tie-in point (both front loops).
5. Dress the knot: Align all strands so they run parallel without crossing or twisting. Remove any slack gradually.
6. Safety check: Ensure there are no gaps, crossovers, or loose ends. The finished knot should have two clean, parallel tracks forming a symmetrical “8.”
7. Finish with a stopper: Leave at least 8 cm (3 inches) of tail beyond the final tuck. Some climbers add a simple overhand knot in the tail for extra security.

Tip: Practice tying the knot with gloves on or in low light to simulate real climbing conditions.

Common Mistakes and How to Avoid Them

Even experienced climbers occasionally make errors. These are the most frequent—and preventable—mistakes:

• Incomplete tuck: Failing to fully retrace the original knot leaves weak loops. Always double-check each segment matches the first pass.
• Undersized tail: A tail shorter than 8 cm can pull through under load. Measure before tightening.
• Improper dressing: Crossed strands or internal twists create stress points. Take time to align every strand neatly.
• Tying around hardware incorrectly: Only thread the rope through designated tie-in points—not gear loops or belay devices.

Do	Don’t
Leave a 20–30 cm tail before starting	Use less than 15 cm of tail
Dress the knot so all strands lie flat and parallel	Allow crossed or pinched rope sections
Inspect both sides of the knot for symmetry	Assume it’s correct after tightening without checking
Retest the knot after a fall or heavy load	Continue using a deformed or melted knot

Real-World Application: A Climbing Scenario

During a recent alpine climb in the Tetons, a solo climber named Mark noticed his partner’s knot was improperly dressed—strands were twisted near the harness connection. He asked her to untie and retie it. Moments later, she took a 5-meter fall during a crux move. The rope held, but post-fall inspection revealed minor sheath damage. Because the knot had been tied correctly, there was no slippage or failure.

“That moment changed how I view knot discipline,” Mark said. “We’d practiced together for years, but fatigue made her rush. Now we always do a partner check—even if it feels redundant.”

This case underscores that human error is the weakest link, not the knot itself. Consistent verification matters more than speed.

When and Where to Use the Figure 8 Knot

The figure 8 excels in high-load, safety-critical environments:

• Climbing: Primary knot for connecting rope to harness.
• Sailing: Securing lines to cleats or sails where shock loads occur.
• Rescue operations: Used in technical rope systems due to reliability.
• Arboriculture: Tree climbers rely on it for rigging setups.

It’s less suitable for quick-release needs or situations requiring frequent untying, as it can jam under extreme tension. In those cases, a bowline with a backup may be preferable—but never at the expense of proper training.

Expert Tips for Long-Term Rope Care

A strong knot is only as good as the rope it’s tied in. Over time, UV exposure, abrasion, and moisture degrade fibers. Follow these practices to maintain peak performance:

Tip: After every climb, inspect your rope and knot area for fraying, melting, or flattening—early signs of structural compromise.

“Your rope is your lifeline. Treat it with respect: store it dry, avoid stepping on it, and retire it after major falls or three years of regular use.” — James Reed, Rope Access Technician & Trainer

Frequently Asked Questions

Can the figure 8 knot come undone on its own?

No, when properly tied and dressed, the figure 8 is highly resistant to loosening. However, it must be secured with sufficient tail length and inspected before loading. Adding an overhand backup in the tail increases security in dynamic environments.

Is the figure 8 stronger than a bowline?

Yes, in most scenarios. The figure 8 retains more of the rope’s inherent strength and is less prone to rolling or capsizing under variable loads. While the bowline is faster to tie, it requires a stopper knot and is harder to inspect quickly.

How often should I retie my figure 8?

Rewire the knot every time you begin a new pitch or session. Never reuse a loaded knot without thorough inspection. Even if it looks intact, internal fiber damage may have occurred.

Mastery Through Repetition

Becoming proficient with the figure 8 isn’t about memorizing steps—it’s about building muscle memory and attention to detail. The best climbers don’t just know how to tie it; they can feel when something’s off. They check their partner’s knot, verify tail length, and ensure perfect dressing every single time.

Set aside five minutes daily to practice. Use different rope diameters, wear gloves, or close your eyes after forming the initial loop. The goal is fluency under pressure, not perfection in comfort.

🚀 Ready to build unshakable confidence in your knots? Grab your rope today, tie a flawless figure 8, and share your progress with a fellow climber. Safety isn’t a one-time act—it’s a habit forged through consistent action.