Resin 3d Printer Vs Filament For Miniatures Which Is Better For Dnd Figures

For tabletop gamers and Dungeons & Dragons enthusiasts, custom miniatures are more than accessories—they’re essential to immersion. Whether you're summoning a dragon or leading a rogue through dungeon corridors, the quality of your figures impacts gameplay and storytelling. As 3D printing becomes accessible, many hobbyists face a critical decision: Should they use resin or filament (FDM) printers for their D&D miniatures? The answer isn’t one-size-fits-all, but understanding the strengths and limitations of each technology can guide you toward the best choice for your needs.

Understanding the Core Technologies

Fused Deposition Modeling (FDM), commonly known as filament printing, works by melting thermoplastic filament—typically PLA or ABS—and depositing it layer by layer. It's the most common type of desktop 3D printer due to its affordability and ease of use. In contrast, resin printing uses a liquid photopolymer cured by UV light, either via a laser (SLA) or projector (MSLA). This method achieves far finer detail and smoother surfaces, making it ideal for intricate models like fantasy miniatures.

The fundamental difference lies in resolution. FDM printers typically operate at layer heights between 50–300 microns, while resin printers routinely achieve 25–50 microns. That precision directly affects how well facial features, armor engravings, and weapon details come out on a 28mm-scale D&D figure. However, higher resolution doesn't automatically make resin the superior option across all use cases.

Tip: Always calibrate your printer’s first layer height—especially for resin—to prevent failed prints caused by adhesion issues.

Detailed Comparison: Resin vs Filament for Miniatures

When evaluating printers for D&D miniatures, several factors matter: print quality, post-processing effort, cost, durability, and workflow efficiency. Below is a side-by-side analysis to clarify trade-offs.

Feature	Resin Printing (SLA/MSLA)	Filament Printing (FDM)
Detail Resolution	Excellent – captures fine textures, facial expressions, hair strands	Moderate – visible layer lines obscure small details
Surface Finish	Smooth out-of-print; minimal sanding needed	Rough; requires significant sanding and filler
Print Time per Miniature	2–4 hours (depending on size and resin type)	4–8 hours (due to lower layer count but slower deposition)
Post-Processing	Washing in isopropyl alcohol + UV curing required	Sanding, priming, and gap filling often necessary
Material Cost per Print	Higher – ~$0.50–$1.50 per miniature	Lower – ~$0.20–$0.60 per miniature
Printer Entry Cost	$200–$500+ for reliable MSLA models	$150–$300 for basic FDM machines
Durability of Prints	Fragile – prone to snapping if dropped	Tougher – handles table bumps better
User Safety	Requires gloves/mask; resin fumes are hazardous	Minimal risk; mainly heat and moving parts

While resin clearly wins in fidelity, it demands careful handling. Spilled resin is difficult to clean and potentially irritating to skin and eyes. FDM avoids these hazards but struggles to produce display-grade miniatures without extensive finishing work. For players who paint their own minis, resin offers a cleaner canvas. For those prioritizing speed and simplicity over perfection, FDM may suffice.

Real-World Use Case: A Dungeon Master’s Upgrade Journey

Mark, a longtime D&D DM from Portland, started with an entry-level Creality Ender 3 to print terrain and basic character tokens. He found that while the printer handled walls and platforms well, his attempts at hero portraits and monster figurines looked crude. “The goblin I printed had no facial definition,” he recalls. “It looked like a blob with a sword.” After joining a local gaming group where others used highly detailed resin figures, Mark invested in an Anycubic Photon Mono X. His next campaign featured a custom necromancer warlock with flowing robes and skeletal motifs—details that would have been impossible to achieve cleanly with filament.

“I spend more time washing prints now,” Mark admits, “but my players notice the difference. They’re more engaged when the villain looks truly menacing.” However, he still uses his old FDM printer for large dungeon tiles and elevation bases. “Each tool has its place,” he says. “I wouldn’t want to wash a 12x12 floor tile in alcohol—that’d be a waste of solvent.”

“Resin printing changed the game for miniature enthusiasts. If you care about visual storytelling, the extra steps are worth every second.” — Lena Torres, Prop Designer & Tabletop Consultant

Step-by-Step Guide to Choosing Your Printer

Selecting the right technology depends on your priorities, budget, and tolerance for post-processing. Follow this decision-making timeline to identify the best fit.

1. Assess Your Goals: Are you printing for personal enjoyment, competitive painting, or sale? High-detail output favors resin.
2. Evaluate Your Workspace: Do you have a ventilated area for handling resin? If not, FDM is safer for indoor use.
3. Calculate Total Costs: Include printer, materials, cleaning supplies (for resin), and power usage. Factor in long-term expenses like replacement build plates or resin tanks.
4. Test Sample Models: Download free miniature STLs from sites like Thingiverse or MyMiniFactory. Try slicing them for both technologies using software like Chitubox (resin) or Cura (FDM).
5. Run a Side-by-Side Print: If possible, print the same model (e.g., a dragon hatchling) on both systems. Compare cleanup time, detail clarity, and structural integrity.
6. Decide Based on Workflow Fit: Choose resin if detail is non-negotiable. Opt for filament if you value low maintenance and ruggedness.

Tip: Always orient miniatures with supports on less visible areas—like under cloaks or behind weapons—to minimize post-print cleanup.

Essential Checklist Before Buying

• ☐ Determine available space and ventilation for resin handling
• ☐ Set a realistic budget including ongoing material costs
• ☐ Research community-recommended printers (e.g., Elegoo Mars for resin; Prusa MK3S for FDM)
• ☐ Confirm compatibility with popular miniature file sources
• ☐ Plan for post-processing tools: alcohol washer, curing station, flush cutters, sandpaper
• ☐ Join online forums (Reddit’s r/miniatures, r/resinprinting) for troubleshooting support
• ☐ Consider future scalability—can the printer handle larger campaigns or commission work?

Common Misconceptions Debunked

Many newcomers assume resin is inherently “better” because of its reputation for detail. But this overlooks practical realities. One myth is that FDM cannot produce usable miniatures at all. While true that stock settings yield rough results, skilled users can optimize FDM prints using techniques like iron-on smooth tape, epoxy coating, and high-resolution modes. Another misconception is that resin printers require constant babysitting. Modern MSLA machines are largely autonomous once started—though monitoring the first few layers remains wise.

Equally misleading is the belief that resin prints don’t need painting. While they offer a superior base, most painters still apply primer and multiple coats to bring out depth and color. Resin simply reduces prep work, not artistic input.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I paint resin miniatures the same way as metal or plastic ones?

Yes, with minor adjustments. Wash the print thoroughly in isopropyl alcohol before priming to remove uncured resin residue. Use acrylic paints designed for miniatures. Avoid oil-based products unless sealed properly, as some may react with residual monomers.

Is filament cheaper in the long run?

In material cost alone, yes. A kilogram of PLA (~$20) yields dozens of miniatures. Resin costs more per milliliter, and bottles range from $30–$50 for 1L. However, if you factor in labor savings from reduced sanding and fewer failed prints due to poor detail, resin can offer better value for serious hobbyists.

Which printer type is better for beginners?

Filament printers are generally more beginner-friendly due to simpler maintenance and lower safety risks. New users can learn core concepts like leveling, slicing, and calibration without handling hazardous chemicals. That said, modern resin printers come pre-calibrated and include intuitive software, narrowing the learning gap.

Final Recommendation: Match Technology to Purpose

For D&D figures specifically, resin printing is objectively superior in terms of aesthetic quality. Its ability to reproduce delicate features—elven ears, dragon scales, spell effects—makes characters feel alive on the battlefield. If you invest time in painting or running narrative-heavy campaigns, resin elevates the entire experience.

However, filament retains strong advantages for utility-focused builds. Need a crumbling castle wall, modular staircase, or oversized boss pedestal? FDM handles large, durable pieces efficiently. Many seasoned hobbyists maintain both types: resin for heroes and villains, filament for terrain and structural elements.

Ultimately, the best choice aligns with your playstyle. If your group values visual immersion and collectible-quality figures, prioritize resin. If you prefer fast prototyping, kid-safe operation, or budget-conscious scaling, filament remains a viable path. Technology should serve the story—not complicate it.

💬 Ready to level up your D&D visuals? Start with a single resin-printed NPC and see how it transforms your next session. Share your first print online—you might inspire someone else to take the leap.