Resin 3d Printer Vs Filament Which Is Better For Making Anime Figures

Creating anime figures has evolved from hand-sculpted artistry to accessible digital fabrication. With the rise of consumer 3D printing, fans and artists can now produce highly detailed replicas of their favorite characters at home. But when choosing between resin and filament (FDM) 3D printers, the decision isn’t just about price—it’s about precision, post-processing, and the kind of finish you want. For anime figures, where facial details, flowing hair, and intricate costumes matter, the choice of technology significantly impacts the final result.

Resin printers use photopolymerization to cure liquid resin layer by layer with UV light, while filament printers melt thermoplastic filament (like PLA or ABS) through a heated nozzle. Each method has strengths, but one clearly outperforms the other when it comes to capturing fine anime aesthetics. Let’s explore why—and how you can make the best choice for your figure-making goals.

Detail Fidelity: Why Resolution Matters for Anime Figures

Anime figures are defined by expressive eyes, stylized hair strands, delicate accessories, and smooth skin textures. These features demand high resolution and minimal layer artifacts. Resin printers typically offer layer heights between 25–50 microns, with some capable of 10-micron precision. This allows them to reproduce subtle curves and sharp lines without visible stepping.

In contrast, most FDM printers operate at 100–200 microns, even on high-end models. While dual-extrusion or micro-nozzle systems improve performance, they still struggle with overhangs and thin protrusions—common in spiky hair or floating sleeves. The extruded filament creates rounded edges and slight warping on small features, which detracts from the clean look expected in commercial anime statues.

Tip: If you're printing eyes or facial expressions, resin’s ability to capture sub-millimeter detail ensures pupils, eyelashes, and blush lines remain crisp.

Consider a character like *Asuka Langley Soryu* from Evangelion—her pigtails, visor, and plug suit require precise geometry. A resin print captures each ridge and fold; an FDM model would need extensive sanding and filler to achieve a similar effect, often compromising proportions.

Comparison Table: Resin vs Filament for Anime Figure Printing

Feature	Resin (SLA/DLP/LCD)	Filament (FDM)
Layer Resolution	25–100 microns	50–300 microns
Surface Smoothness	High – minimal layer lines	Moderate to low – visible ridges
Detail Accuracy	Excellent for fine features	Limited on small overhangs
Print Speed (Small Models)	Slower per layer, faster overall for detail	Faster per layer, but more cleanup needed
Post-Processing Effort	Moderate (washing, curing, supports removal)	High (sanding, priming, gap filling)
Material Cost (per print)	Higher ($20–$40/liter)	Lower ($15–$25/kg)
Safety & Ventilation	Required (toxic fumes, skin contact risk)	Minimal (mostly heat/odor)
Best For	Detailed busts, full figures, miniatures	Props, armor pieces, large bases

Workflow and Post-Processing Realities

The true test of a printing technology lies not only in the raw output but in what happens after the print finishes. Anime figures almost always require support structures due to dynamic poses and floating limbs. Resin printers generate dense, brittle supports that snap off relatively cleanly, though care is needed near delicate areas like fingers or eyelashes.

After printing, resin models must be washed in isopropyl alcohol (IPA) to remove uncured resin, then cured under UV light to harden fully. Skipping this step leads to sticky surfaces and long-term degradation. While effective, this adds time and requires dedicated equipment—a washing station and a curing chamber.

FDM prints, meanwhile, come off the bed ready to handle (once cooled), but rarely look finished. Layer lines must be sanded down, gaps filled with putty, and surfaces primed before painting. For a single anime head, this could mean two hours of manual labor. Resin prints may need light sanding, but the starting surface is far closer to professional quality.

“With resin, I spend less time fixing the print and more time painting. It’s like getting a factory-made kit instead of a rough prototype.” — Kenji T., Miniature Artist and Cosplay Prop Maker

Mini Case Study: Printing a Fate/stay night Saber Bust

Rina, a hobbyist from Osaka, wanted to create a 15cm bust of Saber from *Fate/stay night*. She owned both an FDM printer (Creality Ender 3) and a budget resin printer (Anycubic Photon Mono X). She printed the same model on both machines using optimized settings.

The FDM version required supports for the crown, sword hilt, and flowing cape. After printing, she spent over three hours sanding, applying modeling filler, and re-sanding to smooth the layers. Despite her efforts, the facial features looked slightly blurred, and the cape had noticeable stair-stepping.

The resin print took 45 minutes longer to complete but came out with defined curls, clear iris details, and a smooth jawline. Support removal took 20 minutes, followed by a 10-minute IPA wash and 15-minute UV cure. With only light touch-ups, the model was ready for primer. Rina noted that the resin version captured the “ethereal” look of the character far better than the FDM attempt.

She concluded: “If I were selling these, the resin model would pass as store-bought. The FDM one screams ‘handmade’ unless you’re a master at finishing.”

Cost Considerations Beyond the Printer Price

At first glance, FDM printers seem cheaper. Entry-level models start around $150, while decent resin printers begin at $200–$300. However, total cost of ownership shifts the balance. Resin printers require ongoing investment in consumables: isopropyl alcohol, replacement vats, and FEP films. A typical vat lasts 1–2 liters of resin before needing replacement ($20–$40).

Yet, material efficiency favors resin. Because supports are thinner and models are printed vertically, less material is used per figure. An anime bust might consume 30ml of resin (~$1 at $35/liter), while an equivalent FDM print uses 80–100g of filament (~$2–$3).

More importantly, time is money. If you value your labor at even $10/hour, the extra 2–3 hours spent post-processing an FDM figure adds significant hidden cost. Resin reduces that burden dramatically, making it more economical for frequent creators.

Tip: Use water-washable resin to skip IPA costs and simplify cleanup—ideal for beginners concerned about chemical handling.

When Filament Printers Still Make Sense

While resin dominates in detail, filament printers aren’t obsolete for anime projects. They excel in specific scenarios:

• Large-scale props: Oversized swords, shields, or mechanical armor pieces benefit from FDM’s strength and lower cost per cubic inch.
• Functional bases: Heavy display stands or articulated platforms are more durable in PLA or PETG than brittle resin.
• Prototyping: Quickly testing pose variations or scale adjustments is faster and cheaper with filament.

Many serious figure makers use both: resin for the character, FDM for accessories or diorama elements. This hybrid approach maximizes strengths while minimizing weaknesses.

Step-by-Step Guide: Creating Your First Resin Anime Figure

1. Choose a Model: Download a high-poly anime figure STL from reputable sites like MyMiniFactory or Cults3D. Ensure it’s designed for resin printing (supports included or easily generated).
2. Prepare the File: Import into ChiTuBox or Lychee Slicer. Orient the model vertically to minimize supports on the face. Add tree-like supports for stability.
3. Print: Load resin, ensure the vat is clean, and start the print. Monitor the first few layers to prevent adhesion issues.
4. Wash: Remove the build plate and rinse the model in IPA for 5–10 minutes using a wash station or manual dunking.
5. Cure: Place on a turntable under UV light for 5–10 minutes per side. Use gloves to avoid skin contact.
6. Remove Supports: Clip supports with flush cutters, then lightly sand attachment points with 400–600 grit paper.
7. Prime and Paint: Apply gray primer, inspect for flaws, then paint with acrylics using thin layers for realism.

Checklist: Is a Resin Printer Right for You?

• ✅ You prioritize fine facial details and smooth surfaces
• ✅ You’re willing to handle chemicals safely (with gloves and ventilation)
• ✅ You plan to paint and display figures, not just prototype
• ✅ You have space for a dedicated printing and curing area
• ❌ You prefer completely hands-off, no-chemical workflows
• ❌ You mainly print large, structural pieces rather than small collectibles

FAQ

Can I paint resin figures with regular acrylics?

Yes. Once fully cured, resin accepts standard model acrylics (e.g., Vallejo, Citadel) perfectly. Always prime first to ensure paint adhesion and hide minor imperfections.

Is resin printing dangerous for home use?

Raw resin is toxic if ingested or exposed to skin, and fumes should not be inhaled. However, with proper PPE (nitrile gloves, mask, ventilation), and careful handling, it’s safe for home studios. Water-washable resins reduce risks further.

Do I need to hollow anime figures to save resin?

For display pieces under 15cm, solid printing is fine. For larger busts or full bodies, hollowing with escape holes reduces material use and prevents uncured resin traps. Use Meshmixer or Chitubox’s hollowing tools.

Conclusion

For anime figures, resin 3D printing is objectively superior in capturing the nuanced artistry of the genre. Its high resolution, smooth surfaces, and reduced post-processing effort make it the preferred tool for collectors, customizers, and aspiring sculptors. While filament printers have their place in prop-making and prototyping, they fall short when the goal is lifelike expression and studio-quality finish.

If you’re serious about bringing anime characters to life with accuracy and elegance, investing in a mid-range resin printer pays dividends in quality and time saved. Start with a reliable model, practice safe handling, and focus on mastering orientation and support placement. The result won’t just look like a print—it’ll feel like a genuine collectible.

💬 Have you switched from filament to resin for anime figures? Share your experience or ask questions in the comments—let’s help fellow creators level up their craft!