Resin Vs Fdm 3d Printer Which Is Easier For Beginner Figure Printing

For beginners interested in 3D printing miniature figures—such as tabletop game models, anime characters, or custom collectibles—the choice between resin and FDM (Fused Deposition Modeling) printers can be overwhelming. Both technologies have evolved significantly, but they differ fundamentally in how they build objects, the quality of output, and the effort required to get consistent results. The real question isn’t just about technical specs—it’s about which system aligns better with a beginner’s goals, patience, workspace, and willingness to learn.

Figures demand fine detail, smooth surfaces, and accurate geometry. While both resin and FDM printers can produce figures, one excels in precision while the other wins in simplicity and safety. Understanding these trade-offs is essential before investing time and money into a first machine.

Understanding the Core Differences

FDM printers work by extruding molten plastic filament layer by layer through a heated nozzle. Think of it like a high-precision hot glue gun moving in three dimensions. Resin printers, on the other hand, use a vat of liquid photopolymer that hardens when exposed to UV light—either from a laser (SLA) or a projector (LCD/DLP). The model is pulled upward (or downward, depending on design) out of the resin as each layer cures.

This fundamental difference leads to distinct outcomes:

• FDM produces functional, durable parts with visible layer lines. Ideal for prototypes, tools, or large-scale prints.
• Resin captures intricate details such as facial features, fabric folds, and weapon engravings with near-invisible layer lines. Best suited for display models and miniatures.

When it comes to figure printing, resin clearly wins in terms of surface fidelity. But “easier” doesn’t always mean “better-looking.” For a beginner, ease of use includes setup, maintenance, troubleshooting, post-processing, and safety.

Learning Curve and Setup Simplicity

FDM printers are generally more beginner-friendly in terms of initial operation. Most entry-level FDM machines come pre-assembled or require minimal calibration. Bed leveling may be manual or automatic, and filament loading is straightforward. Software slicing settings—while customizable—are often manageable with default profiles from platforms like Cura or PrusaSlicer.

In contrast, resin printers, though simpler mechanically, introduce chemical handling and environmental concerns. Setting up a resin printer requires protective gear (gloves, mask), proper ventilation, and a dedicated workspace away from sunlight. The build plate must be perfectly level and clean; even minor misalignment causes failed prints. Resin must be stirred (often manually), poured carefully, and filtered after use.

Tip: Always wear nitrile gloves and work in a well-ventilated area when handling uncured resin—it's toxic and can cause skin irritation.

While modern resin printers boast \"plug-and-play\" claims, first-time users often encounter issues like adhesion failure, peeling problems, or incomplete curing due to incorrect exposure times. These require iterative tuning rather than one-time setup.

“New users often underestimate the lab-like discipline resin printing demands. It’s not plug-and-play—it’s chemistry meets engineering.” — Dr. Lena Park, Additive Manufacturing Researcher at MIT Media Lab

Print Quality and Detail Accuracy

For figure printing, detail resolution is non-negotiable. Resin printers typically operate at 50–100 microns layer height, with some capable of 10-micron precision. This allows crisp rendering of hair strands, facial expressions, and delicate accessories. FDM printers usually range from 100–300 microns, making fine textures appear stair-stepped or blurred without extensive sanding and filling.

Consider a 28mm fantasy warrior model:

• A resin print will show individual chainmail links, defined musculature, and readable inscriptions on weapons.
• An FDM print of the same model may require heavy post-processing to remove stringing, layer artifacts, and nozzle drag marks before paint application.

Moreover, resin supports overhangs better due to its support structures being thinner and less intrusive. FDM often requires bulky supports that mar surfaces and are harder to remove cleanly on small figures.

Comparison Table: Resin vs FDM for Figure Printing

Feature	Resin Printer	FDM Printer
Detail Resolution	Excellent (50–100μm)	Moderate (100–300μm)
Surface Smoothness	High (minimal layer lines)	Low to Moderate (visible layers)
Support Removal	Easier (thin supports)	Harder (bulky, fused supports)
Setup Complexity	Moderate to High	Low to Moderate
Safety Concerns	High (toxic resin, UV, fumes)	Low (hot nozzle, moving parts)
Post-Processing Time	Moderate (washing, curing)	High (sanding, priming, filling)
Beginner Friendliness	Lower (steep learning curve)	Higher (forgiving workflow)
Cost per Print	Higher (resin cost ~$50/L)	Lower (PLA ~$20/kg)

Post-Processing Workflow: Time and Effort

After printing, both technologies require cleanup—but in very different ways.

With **FDM**, post-processing for figures involves:

1. Removing supports (often with pliers or flush cutters).
2. Sanding rough edges and layer lines using progressively finer grits (up to 400+).
3. Filling gaps with putty if needed.
4. Priming before painting to reveal imperfections.

This process can take longer than the actual print, especially for multi-part models.

With **resin**, the steps are chemically intensive:

1. Removing the print from the build plate.
2. Soaking in isopropyl alcohol (IPA) for 5–10 minutes to wash uncured resin.
3. Drying thoroughly.
4. Curing under UV light for 5–15 minutes to fully harden the model.
5. Removing supports with precision tools (tweezers, flush cutters).

While support removal is faster, the need for IPA, UV curing stations, and safe disposal of waste resin adds complexity. IPA is flammable and must be stored properly. Used resin cannot be poured down drains.

Tip: Use a dedicated washing station with filtration or reusable mesh baskets to minimize IPA usage and reduce mess.

Real-World Example: Alex’s First Miniature Project

Alex, a board game enthusiast, wanted to 3D print custom Warhammer-style miniatures for his gaming group. He started with an entry-level FDM printer (Creality Ender 3) because it was affordable and highly recommended online. His first few figure prints were disappointing—layer lines obscured facial details, and supports left deep marks on cloaks and armor. Despite hours of sanding, the models looked amateurish after painting.

He then borrowed a friend’s resin printer (Anycubic Photon Mono X) and tried the same model. The result was striking: every rune on the shield was legible, and the character’s expression was preserved. However, Alex spilled resin during cleanup, didn’t cure the model long enough, and ended up with a sticky, deformed figure. After reading safety guidelines and investing in a curing station, his second attempt succeeded.

His conclusion? Resin gave superior results, but only after overcoming a steeper initial hurdle. For someone prioritizing aesthetics, it was worth the effort. But had he been printing terrain or functional parts, FDM would have sufficed with far less risk.

Step-by-Step Guide: Choosing Your First Figure Printer

Follow this decision-making timeline to pick the right technology based on your priorities:

1. Week 1: Define Your Goals
   Are you printing for display, gaming, or resale? If visual fidelity is critical, lean toward resin.
2. Week 2: Assess Your Workspace
   Do you have a ventilated, dedicated area away from children and pets? If not, FDM is safer.
3. Week 3: Evaluate Time vs. Skill Trade-off
   Are you willing to learn chemical handling and post-cure workflows? Yes → resin. Prefer mechanical simplicity? → FDM.
4. Week 4: Budget Realistically
   Include costs beyond the printer: resin (~$50/L), IPA, PPE, curing station, replacement vats, and filters. FDM filament is cheaper and safer.
5. Week 5: Test Models
   Download sample figure files and simulate print times and material needs for both systems. Use slicing software (Chitubox for resin, Cura for FDM) to preview supports and orientation.

Checklist: Beginner’s Readiness Assessment

Before buying, answer yes to at least four of these:

• ✅ I have a separate, well-ventilated space for printing and cleaning.
• ✅ I’m comfortable wearing gloves and a mask during post-processing.
• ✅ I understand that failed prints are common and part of the learning process.
• ✅ I’m prepared to spend extra time on post-processing (washing, curing, support removal).
• ✅ I value fine detail over print speed and durability.
• ✅ I’ve budgeted for consumables and safety equipment.

If fewer than four apply, consider starting with FDM and upgrading later.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I paint FDM figure prints to look like resin?

You can improve the appearance significantly with primer, putty, and careful painting. However, deep layer lines and nozzle scars may still show under bright lighting or close inspection. Resin starts smoother, reducing prep time by up to 70%.

Is resin printing dangerous for beginners?

Uncured resin is a skin and respiratory irritant and should never be handled bare-handed. With proper PPE, ventilation, and adherence to safety protocols, risks are manageable. Never inhale fumes directly or expose skin. Once fully cured, resin prints are inert and safe to handle.

Which printer type has higher long-term costs?

Resin printers typically cost more per print. A liter of standard resin costs $45–60, while a kilogram of PLA filament is $18–25. Additionally, resin vats degrade over time (6–12 months) and cost $50–100 to replace. FDM nozzles wear slower and are cheaper to replace.

Conclusion: Balancing Ease and Outcome

When it comes to beginner figure printing, FDM is technically easier to start with—safer, simpler, and more forgiving. But if your goal is high-detail miniatures with professional finish, resin delivers unmatched quality despite its steeper learning curve.

The truth is, “easier” depends on what you value most. If you prioritize low risk, mechanical transparency, and gradual skill-building, begin with FDM. If you’re drawn to the artistry of miniature modeling and accept the responsibility of handling chemicals safely, resin offers a direct path to stunning results.

Many experienced hobbyists use both: FDM for terrain, bases, and prototypes; resin for figures and display pieces. Starting with FDM builds foundational knowledge of 3D printing principles. Transitioning to resin later becomes smoother once you understand file preparation, support logic, and troubleshooting.

🚀 Ready to make your first move? Download a free sample figure model, test it on a slicer, and decide whether precision or simplicity matters more to you. Share your journey and questions in the community—every expert was once a beginner.