Resin Vs Filament 3d Printing Which Is Better For Making Miniatures

Creating miniature models—whether for tabletop gaming, collectibles, or architectural visualization—demands high detail, smooth surfaces, and dimensional accuracy. With the rise of accessible 3D printing, hobbyists and professionals alike now have two dominant technologies at their disposal: resin (SLA/DLP) and filament (FDM). While both can produce miniatures, they differ drastically in output quality, post-processing effort, cost, and usability. Choosing the right method isn't just about preference—it's about matching technology to purpose.

Fused Deposition Modeling (FDM), commonly known as filament printing, builds objects by melting and extruding thermoplastic layer by layer. Stereolithography (SLA), or resin printing, uses UV light to cure liquid photopolymer resin into solid layers. The fundamental difference in how these printers operate leads to significant variation in the final product, especially when it comes to intricate figurines and small-scale models.

Detailed Comparison: Print Quality and Surface Finish

When it comes to fine details such as facial features, folds in clothing, or weapon engravings on a 28mm fantasy miniature, resolution matters. Resin printers typically offer much higher resolution than filament printers. Most consumer-grade resin printers support XY resolutions between 35–100 microns, with layer heights as low as 10–25 microns. In contrast, FDM printers usually operate at 100–200 micron layer heights, with nozzle diameters limiting horizontal detail to around 400 microns at best.

This means resin prints capture subtle curves, sharp edges, and delicate textures far more accurately. For example, a dragon’s scale pattern printed via resin will appear crisp and continuous, while the same model on an FDM printer may show visible stepping, blobbing, or stringing that obscures fine geometry.

Tip: Always orient miniatures so that critical details like faces are not parallel to the build plate to minimize support marks.

Surface finish is another major differentiator. Resin prints emerge with a smooth, almost injection-molded appearance straight from the printer (post-cure aside). FDM prints, however, exhibit visible layer lines and require extensive sanding, priming, and filling to achieve a comparable look—especially problematic on curved surfaces common in organic miniatures.

Workflow and Post-Processing Requirements

The actual printing process is only part of the story. How much time and effort you spend afterward determines overall efficiency and user experience.

Resin printing requires several mandatory post-processing steps: washing in isopropyl alcohol (IPA) or specialized cleaning solutions, removing supports, curing under UV light, and often patching minor defects. Failure to wash thoroughly leaves uncured resin that can degrade over time or cause skin irritation. Under-curing leads to brittleness; over-curing causes warping. These steps demand dedicated equipment—an ultrasonic washer, curing station, gloves, and ventilation—which adds complexity and cost.

Filament printing, while less precise, offers simpler cleanup. Once the print finishes, you remove it from the bed, snip off support structures (if used), and optionally sand or prime. No solvents or UV exposure needed. However, achieving professional results still involves considerable manual labor due to the inherent roughness of FDM output.

“Resin gives you 90% of the way there out of the printer. FDM gives you 60%, but asks for 200% effort to reach the same finish.” — Mark Tran, Miniature Designer & 3D Printing Consultant

Cost Analysis: Upfront Investment and Ongoing Expenses

Initial hardware cost has narrowed significantly in recent years. Entry-level resin printers start around $200–$300, while reliable FDM machines fall within a similar range. However, long-term costs diverge sharply.

Resin is more expensive per unit volume than filament. A liter of standard gray resin costs $40–$60, whereas a 1kg spool of PLA filament (which yields roughly 330ml of printed material) costs $15–$25. Given that resin is denser and often used for smaller objects, the effective cost per miniature favors filament if size and quantity are factors.

But resin allows for higher packing density on the build plate. You can fit dozens of tiny miniatures on a single resin print job, minimizing waste. FDM printers struggle with this due to longer print times per object and larger minimum feature sizes. So while resin material is pricier, its efficiency in batch production can offset the cost for high-detail collectors.

Factor	Resin Printing	Filament Printing
Average Printer Cost	$200–$500	$200–$400
Material Cost (per liter equivalent)	$40–$70	$20–$30
Post-Processing Equipment	Washer, Curing Station, IPA ($150+)	None required
Print Time (for 20x 28mm minis)	~2 hours	~10 hours
Skill Required for Finish	Low to moderate (cleaning, supports)	High (sanding, gap-filling, priming)

Practical Use Case: Gaming Miniature Production

Consider Sarah, a freelance designer creating custom Warhammer-style miniatures for Etsy. She initially used an FDM printer to keep costs low. While functional, her early models required nearly an hour of sanding and putty work per piece before painting. Customers appreciated the creativity but noted inconsistencies in surface quality.

After switching to a mid-range resin printer, Sarah found she could produce five times as many miniatures in the same timeframe, with dramatically improved detail retention. Her post-processing time dropped from 60 minutes to 15 minutes per model—mainly support removal and washing. Despite spending more on materials, her customer satisfaction and repeat orders increased by over 70% within three months. The investment paid for itself in eight weeks.

Her workflow evolved: design in ZBrush → slice in Chitubox → print 30 miniatures simultaneously → wash → cure → lightly sand nubs → paint. This scalability would have been impossible with FDM given the time-to-finish ratio.

When Filament Makes Sense for Miniatures

Despite resin’s advantages, filament printing remains viable in specific scenarios.

For larger-scale dioramas or terrain pieces—such as castles, ruins, or base platforms—where fine anatomical detail is less critical, FDM excels. Its strength lies in durability and structural integrity. PLA and PETG hold up well to handling, unlike brittle resins that can snap under stress. Large flat surfaces and interlocking parts are easier to print without warping compared to resin’s tendency to peel during separation from the vat.

Additionally, filament is safer for home environments without proper ventilation. Resin fumes are irritating and potentially harmful; uncured resin is toxic. Families with children or limited workspace may prefer avoiding chemical exposure altogether.

• Filament is ideal for: large terrain, beginner practice models, disposable prototypes, eco-conscious users (PLA is biodegradable).
• Resin is ideal for: high-detail figures, jewelry-scale items, display collectibles, mass-producing small parts.

Tip: If using resin, always wear nitrile gloves and work in a well-ventilated area. Store resin bottles away from sunlight to prevent premature curing.

Step-by-Step Guide: Optimizing Your Miniature Print Setup

Regardless of your chosen technology, follow this sequence to maximize success:

1. Select the Right Model Source: Download or create STL files optimized for your printer type. For resin, ensure models are manifold and properly oriented. For FDM, avoid overly thin protrusions.
2. Prepare the Printer: Level the bed (FDM) or check the PDMS vat film (resin). Ensure adhesion surfaces are clean and undamaged.
3. Use Appropriate Settings:
   • Resin: 50-micron layers, 4–6 second exposure (adjust based on resin type), use tree supports for organic shapes.
   • Filament: 0.1–0.2mm layer height, 100% infill for stability, enable cooling fan to reduce sagging.
4. Monitor First Layers: Watch the initial layers closely. Failed first layers waste time and material.
5. Post-Process Efficiently:
   • Resin: Wash for 5–10 minutes in IPA, air dry, cure for 5–10 minutes under UV.
   • Filament: Remove supports with flush cutters, sand progressively from 200 to 600 grit, prime before painting.
6. Evaluate and Iterate: Inspect for warping, lifting, or detail loss. Adjust orientation or settings accordingly.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I paint resin and filament prints the same way?

Yes, both accept acrylic paints well, but preparation differs. Resin prints should be fully cured and lightly sanded to remove support marks. Filament prints often require primer and filler (like wood glue or putty) to hide layer lines before painting for a smooth finish.

Is resin printing worth it for beginners?

It depends on your goals. If you're focused on high-detail miniatures, yes—modern resin printers are surprisingly user-friendly. However, expect a learning curve with handling chemicals and troubleshooting failed prints. Beginners may benefit from starting with a budget FDM printer to learn slicing and calibration basics first.

Which lasts longer: resin or filament miniatures?

Filament miniatures (especially in PETG or ABS) are more durable and resistant to impact. Resin models are brittle and can degrade under prolonged UV exposure (sunlight). For display-only pieces kept indoors, resin longevity is sufficient. For gaming pieces handled frequently, filament or post-cured tough resins are better choices.

Checklist: Choosing Between Resin and Filament for Miniatures

• ☐ Do you prioritize extreme detail and smooth finishes? → Lean toward resin.
• ☐ Will you print large terrain or functional parts? → Filament may be better.
• ☐ Do you have space and ventilation for chemical handling? → Required for resin.
• ☐ Are you on a tight budget with no room for extra equipment? → Filament reduces overhead.
• ☐ Do you plan to produce miniatures in batches? → Resin offers superior throughput.
• ☐ Will the miniatures be handled often? → Choose durable filament or reinforced resin.

Final Recommendation

For most miniature-specific applications—particularly character models, busts, and collectible-scale figures—resin 3D printing is objectively superior in terms of detail, consistency, and post-print effort. It delivers gallery-ready results with minimal finishing, making it the go-to choice for serious hobbyists and commercial creators.

Filament printing retains value for prototyping, large-scale builds, and users prioritizing safety and simplicity. It’s also more forgiving for mechanical parts or rugged terrain where aesthetics are secondary to function.

The best approach might be hybrid: use resin for final presentation models and filament for test fits, bases, or supporting structures. Many advanced users maintain both types of printers to leverage the strengths of each.

🚀 Ready to elevate your miniature game? Start with a reliable resin printer if detail is your priority, or stick with filament for robust, low-maintenance builds. Share your own experiences or ask questions in the community—your next breakthrough might come from someone who faced the same challenge.