Resin Vs Pla 3d Printing Which Is Better For Beginners Making Figures

For aspiring hobbyists diving into the world of 3D printed figures—whether for tabletop gaming, collectibles, or custom art—the choice between resin and PLA can shape their entire experience. Both materials offer distinct advantages, but they differ significantly in print quality, workflow complexity, cost, and safety. Understanding these differences is essential for beginners who want to avoid frustration, wasted time, and unnecessary expenses while achieving professional-looking results.

This guide breaks down the key factors that matter most when choosing between resin and PLA for figure printing. From surface detail and post-processing demands to equipment costs and health considerations, we’ll help you make an informed decision based on your goals, environment, and comfort level with technology.

Print Quality and Detail: Where Each Material Excels

When it comes to intricate models like human faces, armor textures, or delicate accessories, resolution matters. Resin printing uses a process called stereolithography (SLA) or digital light processing (DLP), where UV light cures liquid photopolymer layer by layer. This method typically achieves layer heights as fine as 25–50 microns, resulting in smooth surfaces and razor-sharp details.

In contrast, fused deposition modeling (FDM) printers using PLA plastic extrude molten filament through a nozzle, usually at layer heights between 100–200 microns. While modern FDM printers can produce decent results, visible layer lines are common, especially on curved surfaces. Bridging gaps, overhangs, and thin protrusions often require supports and may still result in sagging or warping.

Consider this: a 28mm fantasy miniature with engraved runes and flowing hair will show far more definition in resin. The subtle curves of eyes, fingers, or fabric folds retain clarity without sanding. PLA prints may need extensive post-processing to reach similar fidelity.

“Resin’s ability to capture micro-details makes it the go-to for character artists and prop makers who demand realism.” — Daniel Lin, Miniature Design Specialist

Tip: If visual precision is your top priority and you're printing small-scale figures, resin offers unmatched detail retention out of the printer.

Equipment and Setup Costs: What Beginners Should Budget For

While both technologies have become more accessible, initial investment varies significantly. A reliable entry-level FDM printer capable of decent PLA printing starts around $150–$250. These machines are generally plug-and-play, require minimal maintenance, and use inexpensive consumables. PLA filament spools cost roughly $15–$25 per kilogram.

Resin printers start slightly higher—typically $200–$300 for a basic LCD-based model—but come with hidden recurring costs. Resin itself is more expensive, averaging $30–$50 per liter, and is less efficient due to support structures and vat waste. You'll also need additional tools: nitrile gloves, isopropyl alcohol (IPA) for washing, a curing station (recommended), and replacement build plates and FEP films over time.

Moreover, workspace requirements differ. Resin printing demands dedicated ventilation or outdoor setup due to fumes. An enclosed space with air filtration helps mitigate odor and exposure risks. PLA, on the other hand, emits minimal odor (mostly sweet, like waffles) and can be safely used in homes, dorm rooms, or shared workspaces.

Factor	PLA (FDM)	Resin (SLA/DLP)
Average Printer Cost	$150–$250	$200–$300+
Material Cost per Liter/kg	$15–$25	$30–$50
Ventilation Required?	No	Yes (strongly advised)
Post-Processing Tools	Spatula, sandpaper	Wash station, IPA, gloves, UV chamber
Learning Curve	Low to moderate	Moderate to high

Safety and Handling: Health Considerations for Home Users

One of the most overlooked aspects for beginners is safety. Uncured resin is a skin irritant and potential sensitizer. Direct contact can cause allergic reactions, and inhaling fumes over time may lead to respiratory discomfort. Always wear nitrile gloves, work in a well-ventilated area, and clean spills immediately. Some users report headaches or eye irritation after prolonged exposure—even with masks.

PLA, derived from cornstarch, is biodegradable and non-toxic under normal conditions. While all 3D printing produces ultrafine particles, PLA emits fewer volatile organic compounds (VOCs) than ABS or resin. It's widely considered safe for indoor use, though using a particulate filter or placing the printer away from seating areas is still wise.

Cleaning resin prints adds another hazard: isopropyl alcohol is flammable and requires careful storage. Pouring used IPA down drains is environmentally harmful and often illegal. Disposal must follow local regulations. Over time, repeated handling increases risk unless proper protocols are followed.

Tip: Never touch uncured resin with bare hands. Use disposable gloves and keep a dedicated cleanup kit nearby.

Workflow and Post-Processing: Time Investment Compared

The real difference between resin and PLA becomes apparent after the print finishes. With PLA, removal is simple: let it cool, pop it off the bed, clip off supports, and optionally sand or paint. Minimal cleanup is required unless you’re aiming for a polished finish.

Resin prints require a multi-step post-processing routine:

1. Remove print from build plate using a spatula.
2. Soak in isopropyl alcohol (or专用 wash solution) for 5–10 minutes, agitating gently.
3. Rinse and repeat if needed to remove sticky residue.
4. Let dry completely (air or compressed air).
5. Remove supports carefully with flush cutters—snapping fragile parts is common.
6. Optionally cure under UV light for 5–10 minutes to stabilize the model.

This process can take 30 minutes or more per model, not including drying time. Mistakes—like insufficient washing or incomplete curing—can result in tacky surfaces or degraded prints over time. Beginners often underestimate how messy and time-consuming this stage is.

Additionally, failed prints are harder to clean up. Spilled resin hardens under light and sticks aggressively to surfaces. Cleaning a resin vat or replacing a damaged FEP film adds technical overhead unfamiliar to new users.

Mini Case Study: Alex’s First Figure Project

Alex, a college student and Dungeons & Dragons enthusiast, wanted to print custom miniatures for his campaign. He bought a $220 resin printer based on online reviews praising its detail. His first few prints looked incredible—sharp facial features, clear weapon engravings—but the process quickly became overwhelming.

He didn’t realize he’d need a separate washing container, so he cleaned prints in his kitchen sink (a major safety no-no). The smell bothered his roommate. IPA fumes triggered mild headaches. One night, spilled resin hardened on his desk under a lamp, requiring acetone to remove. After three months, he switched to a used $180 Ender 3 and started printing PLA minis with textured supports. Though less detailed, they were faster, safer, and easier to manage. He now uses resin only for special display pieces printed outdoors.

His takeaway: “The best tech isn’t always the best fit. For weekly gaming needs, PLA won.”

Choosing Based on Your Goals: A Practical Checklist

Still unsure which path suits you? Ask yourself these questions before deciding:

• Will I print mostly small, detailed figures (under 3 inches)? → Lean toward resin.
• Do I have a ventilated or outdoor workspace? → Required for resin.
• Am I comfortable handling chemicals and following strict safety steps? → Necessary for resin.
• Is budget a major constraint (printer + ongoing supplies)? → PLA is more economical.
• Do I want quick turnaround without lengthy cleanup? → Choose PLA.
• Are my figures intended for painting and display rather than durability? → Either works, but resin gives finer prep surfaces.
• Will children or pets be near the printing area? → Avoid resin due to toxicity risks.

Step-by-Step Guide: Getting Started Safely with Either Material

1. Assess your space: Ensure adequate ventilation for resin; clear dust-free zone for PLA.
2. Choose your printer: Entry-level options include Creality Ender 3 (PLA) or Elegoo Mars series (resin).
3. Gather supplies: For PLA: spare nozzles, glue stick, scraper. For resin: IPA, gloves, wash tub, curing box.
4. Start with test prints: Calibrate bed leveling (PLA) or check exposure settings (resin).
5. Master post-processing: Practice removing supports cleanly and sanding layer lines (PLA); perfect your wash-and-cure cycle (resin).
6. Scale up gradually: Begin with free models from Thingiverse or Printables before buying complex designs.
7. Join communities: r/3Dprinting, Discord servers, and Facebook groups offer troubleshooting help.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I paint resin and PLA figures the same way?

Yes, both accept acrylic paints well. However, resin’s smoother surface often requires less primer and sanding. Always clean resin prints thoroughly before priming to ensure adhesion. PLA benefits from a light sanding to remove layer lines for a professional look.

Is resin printing worth it for just one or two figures?

It depends. If those figures are highly detailed and meant for display, yes. But if you value convenience and low risk, PLA may still be preferable even for single projects. Factor in setup, cleanup, and learning time before committing.

Can I use water-washable resin to simplify cleanup?

Water-washable resins reduce reliance on IPA and are safer for indoor use, but they often sacrifice mechanical strength and shelf life. They’re a good compromise for beginners testing resin, but don’t eliminate all hazards. Ventilation and gloves remain necessary.

Final Recommendation: Start with PLA, Then Explore Resin

For most beginners focused on making figures, **PLA is the smarter starting point**. It’s forgiving, affordable, and safe enough for any living environment. You’ll learn core concepts—slicing, calibration, support placement, and finishing—without the added burden of chemical handling or complex workflows.

Once you’ve mastered the basics and determined that hyper-realistic detail is essential to your craft, transitioning to resin becomes a logical upgrade—not a leap into the unknown. Many experienced creators maintain both types of printers: PLA for prototypes and larger builds, resin for final display pieces.

Technology should serve creativity, not complicate it. Starting simple allows you to build confidence, refine your skills, and invest wisely as your passion grows.

🚀 Ready to begin? Pick up an entry-level FDM printer, download a free miniature model, and print your first figure this week. Share your progress online—you’re not alone on this journey.