Step By Step Guide To Building A Budget Mechanical Keyboard For Beginners

Building your first mechanical keyboard doesn’t have to be expensive or intimidating. With the right approach, you can assemble a fully custom keyboard for under $100 that feels personal, performs well, and offers a typing experience far beyond typical membrane keyboards. This guide walks you through each phase—from selecting parts to final assembly—with clear explanations tailored for newcomers. Whether you're drawn to the tactile feedback, customization options, or DIY satisfaction, this process is more accessible than you might think.

Why Build a Budget Mechanical Keyboard?

Pre-built mechanical keyboards are widely available, but they often come with compromises: limited switch choices, bulky designs, or unnecessary features that inflate the price. Building your own allows you to choose every component based on preference and budget. You’ll gain insight into how keyboards function, reduce long-term costs by avoiding overpriced branding, and create a device uniquely suited to your typing style.

A well-chosen budget build delivers performance comparable to models twice the price. Many entry-level components today are manufactured with high tolerances and modern materials, meaning affordability no longer means sacrificing quality.

Tip: Focus on core components first—switches, plate, and PCB. Aesthetics can be upgraded later.

Understanding the Key Components

A mechanical keyboard consists of several essential parts, each playing a role in feel, sound, and functionality. Knowing what each does helps you make informed decisions without overspending.

• Case: The outer shell that holds everything together. Available in plastic (common for budget builds), aluminum (premium), or wood (custom).
• PCB (Printed Circuit Board): Detects keypresses and sends signals to your computer. Can be hot-swap (no soldering) or soldered.
• Plate: A metal or plastic sheet that supports the switches and affects stability and sound.
• Switches: The mechanism under each keycap that registers input. Come in linear, tactile, and clicky varieties.
• Keycaps: The visible tops of keys. ABS and PBT are common plastics; PBT is more durable.
• Stabilizers: Larger mechanisms for spacebar and long keys to prevent wobbling.

For a beginner-friendly budget build, prioritize compatibility and ease of assembly. Hot-swap PCBs eliminate the need for soldering, making repairs and experimentation easier down the line.

Step-by-Step Assembly Process

Follow this logical sequence to assemble your first keyboard efficiently and safely.

1. Unbox and inspect all parts. Check for missing screws, damaged plates, or bent switch pins. Organize components before starting.
2. Install stabilizers onto the PCB. For costar or 3-pin stabs, clip them into place according to your case layout. Test fit a keycap to ensure smooth movement.
3. Insert switches into the plate. Align each switch correctly and press firmly until it clicks into place. Use even pressure to avoid cracking the plate.
4. Mount the plate to the case (if top-mount). Some cases use foam padding between the plate and PCB to dampen vibrations. Follow manufacturer instructions.
5. Attach the PCB to the plate. Align screw holes and secure gently. Avoid over-tightening screws, which can warp the PCB.
6. Plug in the USB cable. Most budget boards use a detachable USB-C connector. Ensure it's seated properly before powering on.
7. Test every key. Use an online keyboard tester to verify all switches register. Address any dead keys immediately.
8. Install keycaps. Press straight down to avoid damaging switch stems. Start from the center and work outward.

Taking your time during installation prevents frustration later. Rushing can lead to misaligned switches or broken stabilizers—common pitfalls for first-time builders.

Tip: Use a small flathead screwdriver or dental pick to help seat tight switches evenly.

Budget-Friendly Component Recommendations

You don’t need premium parts to get great results. The following table outlines reliable, affordable components suitable for a sub-$90 build.

Component	Recommended Model	Price Range (USD)	Notes
Case	Chasing Your Dreams CYD 65% Plastic Case	$20–$25	Durable, lightweight, compatible with most 65% layouts
PCB	Drop Borealis Hot-Swap	$25–$30	VIA-compatible firmware, QMK support, no soldering needed
Plate	Poly carbonate (included with case)	$0–$5	Flexible mount reduces ping; ideal for gasket-mounted cases
Switches	Gazzew Boba U4T (Tactile) or Holy Panda (Hybrid)	$35–$50 (full set)	Smooth tactility, widely praised for typing comfort
Keycaps	GMK Fur (PBT Doubleshot)	$70+ (after group buy)	Consider cheaper PBT sets like Skyloong Ducky or JTK for budget
Budget Keycaps	Woolly Muffin XDA or ZFC SA-style	$25–$35	Good texture, unique look, excellent value

By opting for a 65% layout (which omits the number pad and navigation cluster), you save on both switches and keycaps while retaining arrow keys—a popular balance between size and functionality.

“Beginners often underestimate how much switch choice affects their experience. Spend time researching actuation force and sound profile.” — Jordan Lee, Custom Keyboard Enthusiast & Builder

Common Mistakes and How to Avoid Them

Even simple builds can go wrong without attention to detail. Here are frequent errors and solutions:

• Forcing switches into the plate: If a switch won’t go in easily, check orientation. Forcing it may crack the housing or bend internal contacts.
• Over-tightening case screws: Plastic cases strip easily. Tighten just until resistance increases—don’t crank them down.
• Skipping the foam layer: Foam between the case and PCB dampens noise and improves acoustics. Even a thin sheet makes a difference.
• Ignoring stabilizer lubrication: Stock stabs often rattle. A light application of dielectric grease eliminates slop and clackiness.
• Using incompatible keycaps: Not all keycap profiles fit all switches. Verify stem compatibility (e.g., Cherry MX) before purchasing.

One builder, Alex R., shared his early mistake: “I bought cheap Chinese clones labeled as ‘Gateron Yellows’ only to find they were inconsistent and scratchy. I switched to Gazzew’s switches after reading reviews—and the difference was night and day.” His total rebuild cost less than $80 but felt like a $200 board.

Essential Tools and Accessories

You don’t need many tools, but having the right ones simplifies the process.

Screwdriver (Phillips #0 or #00)

Ideal for tightening small case screws without stripping.

Switch puller

Removes switches from hot-swap PCBs safely—especially useful for testing different types.

Keycap puller

Plastic or metal tool to remove keycaps without scratching.

Zip ties or small container

Keep screws and small parts organized during disassembly.

Isopropyl alcohol and cotton swabs

Clean switches or plates if reused or slightly dirty from shipping.

Tip: Keep a soft cloth under your workspace to catch dropped screws and protect components.

Frequently Asked Questions

Do I need to solder to build a mechanical keyboard?

No. Many modern PCBs support hot-swap sockets, allowing you to insert switches without soldering. This also lets you change switches later. Soldered boards offer slightly better electrical contact but aren't necessary for beginners.

How long does it take to build a budget mechanical keyboard?

For a first-time builder, allow 1.5 to 2.5 hours. This includes reading instructions, installing parts carefully, and testing. With experience, assembly can take under an hour.

Can I reuse parts from an old keyboard?

Sometimes. Old keycaps may fit if they’re standard layout and Cherry MX compatible. However, older switches often wear out or feel mushy. It’s safer to start fresh unless you know their condition.

Final Checklist Before Powering On

Before plugging in your completed keyboard, run through this checklist to avoid damage or malfunction:

• ✅ All switches are fully seated and aligned
• ✅ Stabilizers are clipped in and moving smoothly
• ✅ PCB is securely mounted and not warped
• ✅ USB cable is properly connected to the PCB
• ✅ No loose screws or metal debris inside the case
• ✅ Keycaps are installed and not binding on adjacent keys
• ✅ Foam and silicone pads are positioned correctly (if included)

This final verification ensures a clean first boot and minimizes troubleshooting later.

Conclusion: Start Typing with Purpose

Building a budget mechanical keyboard introduces you to the rewarding world of custom peripherals. What begins as a cost-saving project often evolves into a deeper appreciation for ergonomics, design, and craftsmanship. You’ve learned how to select compatible parts, assemble them methodically, and avoid common errors—all while staying under $100.

Your finished keyboard will reflect your preferences, whether you favor quiet linear switches for late-night coding or tactile feedback for faster typing. And because it’s modular, you can upgrade individual components anytime—swap in new keycaps, try different switches, or even flash custom firmware.

🚀 Now it’s your turn. Gather your components, follow the steps, and enjoy the satisfying click of your first self-built keystroke. Share your build story or ask questions in the community—you’re not just building a keyboard, you’re joining one.