Most homeowners overlook one of the most critical maintenance tasks for their laundry appliances: cleaning the washing machine filter. While top-loading washers don’t always have a visible filter like front-load models, many modern units include internal lint traps or drain pump filters that collect debris over time. When clogged, these components reduce efficiency, cause odors, and may even lead to mechanical failure. A deep clean every 3–6 months can prevent costly repairs and extend the life of your appliance. This comprehensive guide walks you through identifying, accessing, and thoroughly cleaning your top load washing machine’s filter system.
Why Cleaning Your Washing Machine Filter Matters
Even though top load washers are often considered lower maintenance than their front-loading counterparts, they still accumulate lint, hair, fabric fibers, and small foreign objects like coins or buttons. These materials get trapped in internal filtration systems before water is pumped out during the spin cycle. Over time, buildup restricts water flow, forces the pump to work harder, and creates a breeding ground for mold and mildew.
A poorly maintained filter leads to several issues:
- Longer drain cycles or incomplete draining
- Foul odors emanating from the drum
- Reduced wash performance due to poor water circulation
- Premature wear on the pump motor
- Increased risk of flooding if the drain becomes completely blocked
“Many service calls we receive for ‘broken’ washers turn out to be simple blockages in the filter or drain system. Regular cleaning prevents up to 40% of avoidable repairs.” — Carlos Mendez, Appliance Repair Technician with 15 years of experience
Locating the Filter in a Top Load Washer
Unlike front-load machines, which typically have an accessible filter behind a service panel at the bottom front, top loaders vary significantly by brand and model. Some older models do not have user-serviceable filters, relying instead on self-cleaning pumps. However, most newer high-efficiency (HE) top loaders—especially those with impeller-style agitators—include a filter or trap located near the pump assembly.
To determine if your machine has a cleanable filter:
- Consult your owner’s manual under “Maintenance” or “Cleaning Instructions.” Look for terms like “pump filter,” “drain filter,” or “lint trap.”
- If you no longer have the manual, search online using your model number (usually found inside the lid or on the back panel).
- Look for a removable access panel on the exterior rear or base of the machine. Some brands place it behind a small kickplate at the bottom front.
- Listen during the drain cycle. If you hear gurgling or notice slow drainage, it’s likely there’s a filter needing attention.
Tools and Supplies You’ll Need
Before beginning the cleaning process, gather the following items to ensure a smooth, mess-free experience:
| Item | Purpose | Recommended Type |
|---|---|---|
| Towels or absorbent pads | To catch water spills during disassembly | Microfiber or old cotton towels |
| Bucket or shallow container | To collect residual water from the pump housing | 5–10 liter capacity |
| Screwdriver (Phillips or flathead) | To remove access panels or screws | Size depends on your model |
| Gloves (rubber or nitrile) | To protect hands from sludge and bacteria | Disposable or reusable waterproof gloves |
| Soft brush or toothbrush | To scrub debris from filter and housing | Nylon-bristled, non-abrasive |
| Vinegar or washing machine cleaner | To sanitize and dissolve mineral deposits | White vinegar or manufacturer-approved cleaner |
| Flashlight | To inspect tight spaces and locate components | LED penlight or headlamp |
Ensure the washer is unplugged and turned off before starting any work. Safety first—electrical components and water should never mix during maintenance.
Step-by-Step Guide to Deep Cleaning the Filter
Follow these steps carefully to safely access and clean your top load washer’s filter or drain pump housing.
- Run a drain-only cycle. Start by selecting a short spin or drain cycle to remove as much standing water as possible. This minimizes spillage when opening the pump compartment.
- Unplug the machine. Disconnect the power cord from the outlet. Never attempt internal cleaning while the unit is energized.
- Move the washer forward (if necessary). For rear-mounted filters, gently pull the washer away from the wall to access the back. Turn off water supply valves and disconnect hoses only if obstructing access.
- Locate and open the service panel. Depending on your model, the filter may be behind a plastic cover on the lower front, side, or back. Use a screwdriver to remove screws and carefully detach the panel.
- Place towels and a bucket underneath. Position them beneath the pump housing to catch any remaining water. The amount varies—some units release only a cup, others up to a liter.
- Open the pump filter cap. Most filters twist counterclockwise or have a latch mechanism. Turn slowly—pressure may cause water to seep out gradually. Remove the cap and set it aside.
- Remove the filter or debris trap. Pull out the mesh screen, impeller guard, or internal basket. It will likely be coated in lint, hair, sand, or small particles. Rinse it under warm running water.
- Clean the housing interior. Use a soft brush and vinegar solution to scrub the inside of the chamber. Pay attention to crevices where sludge accumulates. Flush with clean water afterward.
- Inspect the impeller (if visible). In some models, you can see the pump impeller behind the filter. Spin it gently with your finger—it should rotate freely. If jammed, remove any string or fiber blocking movement.
- Reassemble the unit. Reinsert the cleaned filter, tighten the cap securely (but don’t overtighten), and reattach the access panel. Replace any screws.
- Restore power and test. Plug the washer back in, move it into position, reconnect hoses if detached, and run a rinse cycle without clothes to ensure proper drainage and detect leaks.
Real Maintenance Scenario: Preventing Costly Repairs
Sarah, a homeowner in Portland, noticed her Samsung top load washer was taking nearly twice as long to drain. Clothes came out damp, and a musty smell lingered after every load. She tried running empty bleach cycles, but the issue persisted. After consulting an online forum, she discovered her model (WA50R7400AV) had a hidden pump filter accessible from the front lower panel.
Using a YouTube tutorial and her husband’s help, Sarah followed the steps above. Upon opening the housing, she pulled out a tangled mass of dog hair, sock fibers, and a lost hair tie—enough to fill half a coffee mug. After cleaning the filter and flushing the chamber with vinegar, she reassembled the unit. The next wash drained completely in under two minutes, and the odor disappeared. What could have led to a $250 service call cost her only 30 minutes and a few paper towels.
This example underscores how minor neglect can mimic major failures—and how proactive maintenance pays dividends.
Maintenance Checklist: Keep Your Washer Running Smoothly
Use this checklist every 3–6 months to maintain optimal performance:
- ✅ Check for unusual noises during drain/spin cycles
- ✅ Inspect for slow drainage or standing water post-cycle
- ✅ Unplug the washer and prepare workspace with towels
- ✅ Locate and remove access panel near pump area
- ✅ Drain residual water into a bucket
- ✅ Remove filter or lint trap and rinse thoroughly
- ✅ Scrub housing with vinegar and soft brush
- ✅ Clear any obstructions from impeller or pump inlet
- ✅ Reinstall filter and secure cap tightly
- ✅ Reattach panel and restore power
- ✅ Run a test cycle to verify normal operation
- ✅ Log the date of service for future reference
Common Mistakes to Avoid
Even experienced DIYers make errors when servicing their appliances. Here are key pitfalls to sidestep:
| Do’s | Don’ts |
|---|---|
| Always unplug the machine before working | Never leave the filter out or bypass it entirely |
| Clean the filter every 3–6 months | Don’t use sharp tools that can damage plastic housings |
| Use vinegar to disinfect and deodorize | Don’t pour solvents like bleach directly into the pump |
| Check the impeller for free rotation | Don’t force a stuck filter cap—unscrew slowly |
| Keep a log of maintenance dates | Don’t ignore persistent gurgling or error codes after cleaning |
“The filter is the heart of your washer’s drainage system. Treat it with care, and it will keep your machine pumping cleanly for years.” — Lena Park, Senior Home Appliance Consultant at Midwest Service Group
Frequently Asked Questions
Does every top load washer have a filter?
No. Older or basic models may not have a user-accessible filter, relying on self-cleaning pumps. However, most HE top loaders manufactured after 2010 include a serviceable pump filter or lint trap. Consult your manual or manufacturer’s website to confirm.
Can I use bleach instead of vinegar to clean the filter?
Vinegar is preferred because it dissolves mineral buildup and kills mold without damaging rubber seals. Bleach is corrosive and may degrade plastic or elastomer parts over time. If you choose bleach, dilute it heavily (1:10 with water) and rinse thoroughly.
My washer still smells bad after cleaning the filter. What else can I do?
Odors often persist in the drum or hoses. Run a hot water cycle with 2 cups of white vinegar or a dedicated washing machine cleaner. Wipe the inner basin and rubber gasket (if present) with a vinegar-soaked cloth. Leave the lid open between uses to promote drying.
Final Thoughts: Make Filter Maintenance a Habit
Deep cleaning your top load washing machine filter isn’t complicated, but it’s profoundly impactful. Just as changing your car’s oil preserves its engine, maintaining your washer’s filter protects its pump, improves efficiency, and keeps your laundry fresh. The entire process takes less than an hour and requires minimal tools. By integrating this task into your seasonal home maintenance routine—spring cleaning, fall prep, or biannual appliance checkups—you’ll avoid breakdowns, reduce utility costs, and enjoy consistently clean clothes.








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