Step By Step Guide To Painting Ikea Furniture So It Doesnt Chip

Painting IKEA furniture is a popular way to refresh your space without breaking the bank. However, many DIYers end up frustrated when their newly painted dresser or bookshelf starts chipping within weeks. The issue isn’t the furniture—it’s the process. With the right materials, preparation, and finishing techniques, you can achieve a smooth, lasting finish that rivals custom cabinetry. This guide walks through every critical step to ensure your painted IKEA pieces stand up to daily wear and tear.

Why Painted IKEA Furniture Chips (And How to Prevent It)

Most IKEA furniture is made from engineered wood like particleboard or MDF, often covered in a melamine or laminate finish. These surfaces are smooth and resistant to moisture, but they don’t bond well with standard paints. Without proper surface preparation and sealing, paint sits on top rather than adhering beneath, making it vulnerable to scratches, dents, and peeling—especially on high-use items like dressers, tables, or kitchen cabinets.

The key to durability lies not just in the paint you use, but in the entire system: cleaning, sanding, priming, painting, and sealing. Skipping any of these steps drastically increases the risk of failure. According to interior finish expert Miriam Roth, “The weakest link in a painted furniture project is usually adhesion. If the primer doesn’t grip, nothing else matters.”

“Surface prep accounts for 70% of a successful paint job. You can use the most expensive paint in the world, but if the surface isn’t prepped correctly, it will fail.” — Miriam Roth, Interior Finishes Specialist

Essential Materials and Tools

Using the right supplies makes all the difference. Avoid craft-store acrylics or wall paints—they lack the hardness and flexibility needed for furniture. Instead, invest in products designed for cabinetry and trim.

Category	Recommended Products	Avoid
Cleaner	TSP substitute, degreaser, or vinegar-water mix	Dish soap with moisturizers or oils
Sanding Tools	120- and 220-grit sandpaper, sanding block, or orbital sander	Skipping sanding altogether
Primer	Oil-based bonding primer (e.g., Zinsser Cover Stain) or shellac-based (e.g., BIN)	Water-based primer on melamine surfaces
Paint	Alkyd-enamel (e.g., Benjamin Moore Advance), 100% acrylic cabinet paint, or chalk-to-cure paint systems	Latex wall paint, craft paint
Sealer	Water-based polyurethane (matte or satin), polycrylic, or wax (for low-wear items)	No sealer at all
Brushes/Rollers	Foam roller, high-quality synthetic brush (for water-based), or China bristle (for oil-based)	Low-cost foam brushes that shed

Tip: Always test your paint and primer combo on a hidden area or scrap piece first. Some alkyd paints can react poorly with certain shellac primers if not fully dry.

Step-by-Step Painting Process

Follow this detailed sequence to maximize adhesion and minimize chipping. Allow ample drying time between steps—rushing leads to failure.

1. Disassemble and clean thoroughly. Remove all hardware, shelves, and drawers. Wash surfaces with a TSP substitute or degreaser to remove manufacturing residues, skin oils, and dust. Rinse with clean water and let dry completely.
2. Sand the surface. Use 120-grit sandpaper to scuff the glossy melamine or laminate. Focus on edges, corners, and areas that get touched frequently. Wipe away dust with a tack cloth or microfiber towel. For MDF edges, follow up with 220-grit for smoothness.
3. Repair imperfections. Fill dings or screw holes with wood filler. Sand smooth once dry. On particleboard, avoid over-wetting, as it swells easily.
4. Apply primer. Use a thin, even coat of oil-based or shellac primer. These seal the porous edges and bond to non-porous surfaces. Let dry according to manufacturer instructions—oil-based primers may need 24 hours. Lightly sand with 220-grit after drying for a smoother finish.
5. Paint with precision. Stir (don’t shake) the paint to prevent bubbles. Apply the first coat using a foam roller for flat surfaces and a quality brush for edges. Maintain a wet edge to avoid lap marks. Let dry fully—alkyd paints may take 12–24 hours between coats. Apply two thin coats instead of one thick one.
6. Sand lightly between coats. After the first coat dries, use 320-grit paper to knock down any raised grain or dust nibs. Wipe clean before applying the second coat.
7. Apply a protective topcoat. Even the best paint needs protection. Apply 2–3 thin coats of water-based polyurethane. Sand lightly with 400-grit between coats for maximum smoothness. Avoid oil-based poly on white paint—it yellows over time.
8. Cure patiently. Most paints reach full hardness after 7–30 days. During this time, handle gently. Don’t place heavy objects or slide items across the surface.

Real Example: Revamping an IKEA MALM Dresser

Sophie, a homeowner in Portland, wanted to update her beige MALM dresser to match her modern bedroom. She’d tried painting it before using latex paint and a clear wax, but chips appeared around the drawer fronts within three months.

This time, she followed a disciplined approach: cleaned with TSP, sanded with 120-grit, used Zinsser BIN shellac primer, applied two coats of Benjamin Moore Advance in \"Chantilly Lace,\" and finished with three coats of Minwax Polycrylic. She waited four weeks before fully loading the drawers.

Nine months later, the dresser shows no signs of chipping—even in high-touch areas. “I realized I’d been cutting corners before,” Sophie said. “Now I treat it like fine furniture, not a quick craft project.”

Tip: When painting drawer fronts, remove them from the frame and lay flat to paint. This prevents drips and ensures even coverage on edges.

Common Mistakes That Lead to Chipping

• Skipping sanding: Melamine is slick and non-porous. Without abrasion, paint has nothing to grip.
• Using wall paint: Interior latex is formulated for walls, not abrasion resistance. It lacks the cross-linking polymers needed for furniture.
• Rushing drying times: Applying a second coat too soon traps solvents, weakening the film and causing cracking.
• Not sealing: Paint alone is porous and soft. A topcoat adds hardness and protects against moisture and friction.
• Overloading during cure: Moving or stacking items too soon interrupts the chemical curing process, especially with alkyd paints.

Do’s and Don’ts of Painting IKEA Furniture

Action	Do	Don’t
Cleaning	Use TSP substitute or vinegar solution	Wipe with oily hands or dirty cloth
Sanding	Scuff entire surface; include edges	Only sand visible areas
Priming	Use oil- or shellac-based primer	Assume paint with built-in primer is enough
Painting	Apply thin, even coats	Apply thick layers to cover faster
Topcoating	Use water-based polyurethane	Leave paint unsealed
Curing	Wait 7–30 days before heavy use	Put everything back immediately

FAQ: Your Top Questions Answered

Can I paint IKEA furniture without sanding?

Technically yes, but only if you use a specialty bonding primer like INSL-X STIX or a liquid sander/de-glosser. However, sanding remains the most reliable method for long-term adhesion. Skipping it increases the risk of peeling, especially on high-contact surfaces.

What’s the best paint for IKEA kitchen cabinets?

For cabinets, use a 100% acrylic enamel or alkyd-modified paint such as Benjamin Moore Advance or Sherwin-Williams ProClassic. These self-level and cure to a hard, washable finish. Pair with a water-based polycrylic topcoat to resist grease and cleaning chemicals.

How long should I wait before using the furniture?

You can reassemble and lightly use the piece after 48–72 hours, but allow 7–30 days for full cure depending on the paint. Alkyd paints continue to harden chemically during this period. Avoid sliding objects or placing sharp-edged items during the cure phase.

Final Checklist Before You Start

✅ Disassemble furniture and remove hardware

Work on individual components for better access and finish quality.

✅ Clean with degreaser and rinse

Eliminate invisible residues that block adhesion.

✅ Sand entire surface with 120–150 grit

Create a matte texture for primer to grip.

✅ Prime with oil- or shellac-based product

Seal edges and promote strong paint bonding.

✅ Apply two thin paint coats, dry fully between

Prevent sagging and ensure durability.

✅ Seal with 2–3 coats of water-based poly

Add scratch and moisture resistance.

✅ Cure for at least 7 days before heavy use

Let the chemistry do its work for maximum hardness.

Conclusion: Make Your Makeover Last

Painting IKEA furniture doesn’t have to be temporary. By treating each piece as a serious finishing project—not just a weekend craft—you can achieve results that endure years of daily life. The effort you put into preparation and sealing pays off every time you open a drawer or set down a cup without worrying about damage. Whether you’re refreshing a nightstand or transforming a full entertainment unit, following this guide ensures your work stays flawless.

🚀 Ready to transform your IKEA furniture? Gather your supplies, set aside a weekend, and apply these steps with care. Share your before-and-after photos in the comments—your journey could inspire someone else to make their space more beautiful and personal!