The Complete Guide To Safely And Efficiently Emptying Your Pool At Home

Draining a swimming pool is not as simple as opening a valve and walking away. Done incorrectly, it can lead to structural damage, liner warping, or even the entire pool popping out of the ground due to hydrostatic pressure. Whether you're preparing for winter maintenance, repairing a leak, or remodeling your backyard, knowing how to safely and efficiently empty your pool is critical. This comprehensive guide walks you through every phase—planning, preparation, execution, and post-drain care—with professional insights and real-world advice.

Why and When to Empty Your Pool

Most pools don’t require full draining more than once every 3–7 years. However, certain situations make it necessary. These include:

• Severe algae infestations that resist chemical treatment
• Renovations such as resurfacing, tile replacement, or coping repair
• Persistent water balance issues that compromise swimmer comfort and equipment longevity
• Winterization in areas with extreme freeze-thaw cycles (though partial draining is often sufficient)
• Liner replacement in vinyl or fiberglass pools

It's important to note that concrete (gunite or shotcrete) pools are especially vulnerable to structural damage when drained. The surrounding soil exerts outward pressure, and without water inside to counterbalance it, the shell can crack or shift. Always consult a pool professional before draining an inground concrete pool.

Tip: If you're only addressing water quality, consider a partial drain-and-refill instead. Removing 1/3 to 1/2 of the water and replacing it with fresh water can resolve many balance issues without the risks of full drainage.

Step-by-Step Guide to Draining Your Pool

Safely emptying your pool requires careful planning and execution. Follow this timeline-based process to minimize risk and ensure efficiency.

1. Check Local Regulations: Some municipalities restrict discharging pool water into storm drains due to chlorine and chemical content. Verify acceptable discharge methods with your local public works department.
2. Turn Off Equipment: Shut down the pump, heater, and any automation systems. Flip the circuit breaker to prevent accidental activation.
3. Lower Water Level Manually (Optional): Use a submersible pump or siphon hose to remove the top 6–12 inches of water, reducing load on your main pump during drainage.
4. Choose Your Drainage Method: Options include submersible pumps, main pump drainage (if manufacturer allows), or municipal sewer connections. Never use the filter pump alone unless explicitly rated for emptying.
5. Begin Controlled Drainage: Start the pump and monitor flow. Drain no faster than 6 inches per hour to prevent structural stress.
6. Monitor Groundwater Levels: In high-water-table areas, rising groundwater beneath the pool can cause uplift. If the surrounding soil is saturated, delay draining until conditions improve.
7. Stop at the Skimmer Level (for Concrete Pools): Never drain below the skimmer intake unless advised by a contractor. Leaving water above this point maintains crucial hydrostatic balance.
8. Dispose of Water Responsibly: Dechlorinate water to under 0.5 ppm before releasing it onto permeable surfaces like grass or gravel. Avoid discharging near trees or septic systems.

Equipment and Tools Checklist

Having the right tools ensures a smooth, safe process. Here’s what you’ll need:

• Submersible utility pump (minimum 2,000 GPH rating)
• Heavy-duty extension cords (outdoor-rated)
• Durable discharge hose (50–100 feet, depending on distance)
• Test kit or strips (to check chlorine and pH before discharge)
• Dechlorinating agent (sodium thiosulfate)
• Wrench or screwdriver (for filter and valve adjustments)
• Work gloves and safety goggles
• Tarp or cover (to protect exposed pool surfaces from debris and sun)

Tip: Rent a high-capacity dewatering pump from a tool supply store if you have a large pool. It cuts drainage time significantly and reduces labor.

Do’s and Don’ts of Pool Draining

Do’s	Don’ts
Test water chemistry before draining	Discharge chlorinated water into storm drains
Use a submersible pump with a float switch	Leave the pool empty for more than 72 hours
Dechlorinate water to safe levels (≤0.5 ppm)	Drain during heavy rain or flooding
Inspect the pool surface immediately after draining	Use the filter pump to fully empty a concrete pool
Cover the pool opening to prevent debris and animal entry	Allow direct hose runoff onto neighboring property

Real-World Example: A Cautionary Tale from Austin, Texas

In 2022, a homeowner in Austin attempted to drain his 20,000-gallon gunite pool using only the circulation pump to save money on equipment rental. Within six hours, the water level dropped below the skimmer. That night, heavy rains raised the groundwater table. With no internal water to counteract the external pressure, the entire pool structure shifted upward by nearly 4 inches. The repair cost exceeded $18,000 and required complete relining and releveling.

This case underscores a key principle: never underestimate hydrostatic pressure. As one pool contractor put it,

“Water outside the pool is silent but powerful. One inch of groundwater can exert hundreds of pounds per square foot. Respect it.” — Carlos Mendez, Licensed Pool Structural Engineer, Florida Pool Standards Institute

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I use my garden hose to siphon the pool water?

You can for small volumes, but siphoning a full-sized pool with a garden hose is inefficient and impractical. A 15,000-gallon pool could take over 48 hours to drain using this method. Additionally, starting a siphon requires submerging the hose completely, which poses a drowning risk if done improperly. Use a submersible pump for safety and speed.

How long can a pool stay empty?

For vinyl or fiberglass pools, aim to refill within 24–48 hours. For concrete pools, never exceed 72 hours without water unless under professional supervision. Prolonged exposure leads to cracking, tile detachment, and potential shifting due to temperature expansion and lack of structural support.

Is it safe to drain pool water onto my lawn?

Only if the water has been fully dechlorinated and balanced to near-neutral pH (7.2–7.6). Chlorine, cyanuric acid, and algaecides can kill grass and beneficial soil microbes. Test the water first and apply slowly over a large area to avoid pooling. Avoid watering edible gardens with treated pool water.

Final Steps and Re-Filling Best Practices

Once maintenance is complete, refilling should be done gradually. Use a garden hose and place a cloth over the end to reduce impact on the pool floor. Fill at a rate of 6–12 inches per hour to allow the structure to adjust. During refilling, inspect for cracks or leaks that may have developed during the dry period.

After reaching capacity, rebalance the water chemistry. Begin with adjusting calcium hardness and alkalinity, then stabilize pH, and finally introduce sanitizer. Run the filtration system continuously for the first 24–48 hours to ensure proper circulation and clarity.

Conclusion: Take Action with Confidence

Emptying your pool doesn’t have to be a high-risk endeavor. With the right knowledge, tools, and respect for the forces at play, you can manage the process safely and efficiently. Remember that prevention and preparation matter more than speed. Whether you’re handling routine maintenance or preparing for a major renovation, taking the time to do it right protects your investment and keeps your backyard oasis functional for years to come.

💬 Have experience draining your pool? Share your tips or lessons learned in the comments below—your insight could help another homeowner avoid a costly mistake.