Thrifting Vs Depop Is The Markup On Resale Apps Destroying The Treasure Hunt

For decades, thrifting has been more than just a way to save money—it’s been a cultural ritual. The dim lighting, the scent of old fabric, the thrill of unearthing a vintage band tee or a designer jacket for $5: these are the moments that define the authentic treasure hunt. But in recent years, a shift has taken place. Platforms like Depop, Poshmark, and Grailed have turned secondhand clothing into a marketplace driven by markup, algorithms, and influencer aesthetics. What was once a grassroots, community-based practice is now increasingly commercialized. The question isn’t whether resale apps are useful—it’s whether their profit-centric model is eroding the very essence of thrifting.

The Rise of Resale Culture

The secondhand fashion market has exploded in size and visibility. According to ThredUp’s 2023 Resale Report, the global secondhand apparel market is projected to double by 2027, reaching nearly $350 billion. Much of this growth is fueled by digital platforms that make selling and buying used clothes easier than ever. Depop, acquired by Etsy in 2021, has become especially popular among Gen Z for its curated feeds, social media integration, and trend-focused listings.

Unlike traditional thrift stores—where prices are often standardized and low—Depop operates on a free-market model. Sellers set their own prices, frequently inflating them based on perceived trends, brand labels, or condition. A $3 sweater from Goodwill can be relisted for $45 with the right photo, hashtags, and styling. This freedom empowers individuals to earn income, but it also raises concerns about accessibility and authenticity.

Tip: Before marking up a thrifted item, consider whether your price reflects genuine rarity or just algorithmic appeal.

The Markup Mentality: Profit Over Passion

In many cases, the goal on resale apps isn’t to pass along gently used clothes at fair prices—it’s to maximize profit. This mindset has led to widespread markups that often disregard the original context of the garment. A vintage Levi’s trucker jacket purchased for $8 at a local charity shop might be listed for $120 with tags like “Y2K aesthetic” and “rare wash.” While some items do hold collector value, many are overpriced based solely on current TikTok trends.

This behavior isn’t limited to casual sellers. “Flipping” has become a semi-professional gig, with influencers documenting their thrift-to-profit journeys online. Entire YouTube channels and Instagram accounts are dedicated to “how I made $500 in a weekend flipping clothes.” These narratives celebrate markup as skill, rarely acknowledging the impact on communities who rely on affordable clothing.

“Resale should be about circulation, not extraction. When we treat every thrift find as a potential paycheck, we start pricing out the people who need secondhand access most.” — Dr. Lena Torres, Cultural Anthropologist specializing in sustainable fashion

Thrifting vs. Depop: A Comparative Breakdown

To understand the tension between traditional thrifting and app-based resale, it helps to compare their core values, practices, and outcomes.

Aspect	Traditional Thrifting	Depop & Resale Apps
Purpose	Finding unique, affordable clothing; supporting local charities	Selling for profit; building personal brand or side income
Pricing Model	Fixed, low prices (often $1–$10)	Dynamic, seller-determined (can reach hundreds of dollars)
Accessibility	Open to all; essential for budget-conscious shoppers	Limited by algorithm visibility and markup inflation
Ethical Impact	Supports reuse and charitable causes	Mixed: promotes reuse but may exploit undervalued donations
Community Role	Local, communal experience	Global, transactional network

The data shows a clear divergence: while both models keep clothes in circulation longer than fast fashion, their social and economic effects differ significantly. Traditional thrifting democratizes fashion. Resale apps, when dominated by flippers, risk turning secondhand shopping into another tiered economy where only those with disposable income can participate meaningfully.

The Human Cost of the Treasure Hunt Economy

The markup culture doesn’t just change prices—it changes who gets left behind. Low-income families, students, and others dependent on affordable clothing are increasingly priced out of what was once a reliable resource. In cities like Los Angeles, New York, and London, reports have emerged of professional resellers buying out entire racks of vintage denim or retro sportswear the moment new donations arrive, leaving little for everyday shoppers.

Charity thrift stores, which rely on sales to fund social programs, now face a paradox: high-volume resellers generate revenue through purchases, but they also deplete inventory of the most desirable items, reducing long-term foot traffic from regular donors and buyers.

Consider this real-world scenario:

💬 Mini Case Study: The Denim Dilemma in Portland

In 2022, staff at a nonprofit thrift store in Portland noticed a sudden drop in customer satisfaction. Shoppers complained that “all the good stuff” disappeared within hours of restocking. Surveillance and anecdotal evidence revealed a small group of individuals arriving daily at opening time, scanning racks for vintage Levi’s, Carhartt jackets, and band tees—then purchasing dozens of items at once to resell online. While the store benefited from increased cash flow, longtime patrons began avoiding visits altogether. One regular customer, Maria R., said: “I used to find school outfits for my kids here for under $20 total. Now, if something decent shows up, it’s gone before I even get off work.”

The store eventually implemented purchase limits, but enforcement proved difficult. The case highlights a growing tension: when resale becomes a business model built on public donation systems, who really benefits?

How to Thrift Responsibly in the Age of Depop

Not all use of resale apps is problematic. Many sellers genuinely aim to extend the life of clothing while earning modest returns. The issue arises when the culture prioritizes profit above all else. For those who love thrifting but want to preserve its integrity, a few mindful practices can make a difference.

📋 Checklist: Ethical Reselling Practices

• Ask yourself: Am I buying this because someone needs it, or because I think I can sell it for more?
• Limited bulk buying—avoid clearing out entire categories (e.g., all vintage denim).
• Price fairly based on condition, brand, and actual market value—not hype.
• Support local thrift stores by donating unsold or unwanted items.
• Transparency matters: disclose flaws honestly and avoid misleading filters or staging.
• Prioritize reuse over resale when possible—wear it first, then pass it on.

Tip: If you’re unsure about pricing, check completed listings on eBay or compare similar items on multiple platforms to gauge fair market value.

A Step Toward Balance: Reclaiming the Spirit of the Hunt

Can thrifting coexist with resale apps? Yes—but only if users consciously resist the pressure to commodify every find. The treasure hunt was never about financial gain. It was about discovery, sustainability, self-expression, and surprise. That spirit can still thrive, even in a digital age.

Here’s a practical timeline for cultivating a more ethical approach:

1. Week 1–2: Audit your shopping habits. Track how many items you buy with resale intent versus personal use.
2. Week 3: Visit a local thrift store without your phone. Shop with intention, focusing on fit and function rather than resale potential.
3. Week 4: Donate a bag of clothes—no photos, no listings. Experience giving without expecting return.
4. Ongoing: When you do resell, cap your markup at 3x the original cost unless the item is rare or collectible.
5. Monthly: Support a thrift store fundraiser or volunteer sorting donations to reconnect with the system’s roots.

This isn’t about shaming resellers. It’s about rebalancing priorities. The secondhand economy works best when it circulates goods widely, not when it funnels them into niche markets for profit.

FAQ: Common Questions About Thrifting and Resale Ethics

Isn’t reselling secondhand clothes still better than buying fast fashion?

Yes—reselling keeps garments out of landfills and reduces demand for new production. However, the environmental benefit can be undermined if inflated prices limit access and increase shipping emissions from frequent small-package deliveries. Sustainability includes social equity, not just material reuse.

How much markup is too much?

There’s no universal rule, but a common guideline is the “10x labor rule”: if your price is more than ten times what you’d pay someone to clean and photograph the item, the markup likely exceeds reasonable effort compensation. Also consider: would someone wearing this item feel proud, or embarrassed by the price tag?

Can thrift stores compete with Depop?

Not directly—and they shouldn’t try. Their strength lies in affordability, immediacy, and community service. Some have adapted by launching online shops or hosting “vintage curator” events, but their mission remains rooted in accessibility, not exclusivity.

Conclusion: Keep the Hunt Alive

The soul of thrifting isn’t in the label, the resale value, or the Instagram likes. It’s in the unexpected joy of finding something perfect in an unlikely place. It’s in the knowledge that you’re part of a cycle that values care over consumption. As resale apps continue to shape how we engage with secondhand fashion, the choice is ours: will we let markup culture redefine the game, or will we protect the quiet magic of the treasure hunt?

You don’t need to abandon Depop to honor thrifting’s roots. You just need to shop—and sell—with awareness. Buy less, wear more, price fairly, and remember that the best finds aren’t always the most profitable. They’re the ones that feel like they were meant for you.

💬 What does thrifting mean to you? Share your thoughts, stories, or ethical guidelines in the comments. Let’s rebuild the conversation around reuse, one honest listing at a time.