Fabric interfacing

Types of fabric interfacing

Fabric interfacing is a type of material used to give strength, stability, and structure to areas of a garment or sewing project. There are numerous kinds of interfacing, and each is used for different fabric types and sewing requirements. Here are some of them:

• Woven interfacing

  Woven interfacing is made by weaving threads into a cloth. It has a natural drape and grain, so it behaves like many fabrics. This kind of interfacing is stable and suitable for various projects, such as shirts, blouses, and dresses. Depending on the weight, it can add body without making the fabric stiff. There are two types of woven interfacing: light, medium, and heavy.

• Non-woven interfacing

  This type of interfacing is not made from woven or knitted fibers. Instead, it is produced by bonding fibers together using heat, pressure, or adhesives. Non-woven interfacing is usually less expensive and easier to work with. It adds stability and support to various fabrics but may not drape as naturally as woven interfacing. Non-woven interfacing is often available in different weights and thicknesses, making it suitable for various applications, such as collars, cuffs, and facings.

• Knitted interfacing

  Knitted interfacing is made from interlocking loops of yarn. It has stretch and recovery properties, making it suitable for stretchy fabrics like knits and jerseys. Knitted interfacing maintains the fabric's elasticity while providing stability, preventing distortion and ensuring a good fit. It is commonly used in garments like t-shirts, dresses, and activewear. Depending on the type of knit, it can be lightweight or add significant body to a fabric.

• Fusible interfacing

  Fusible interfacing has a heat-activated adhesive on one side. It bonds to the fabric when pressed with an iron, creating a stable, permanent connection. Fusible interfacing is quick and easy to apply, making it popular among sewists. It is available in woven, non-woven, and knitted varieties, each offering different levels of stability and support. Fusible interfacing is ideal for shirts, dresses, and structured garments, ensuring a smooth, wrinkle-free finish.

• Sew-in interfacing

  Sew-in interfacing is not fusible and must be attached to the fabric with stitches. It can be woven, non-woven, or knitted and adds structure and support to various fabrics. Sew-in interfacing is ideal for delicate or heat-sensitive fabrics that may be damaged by iron or adhesive. It is also suitable for projects requiring a softer, more natural drape. Sew-in interfacing is often used in collars, cuffs, and facings, ensuring a clean, professional finish.

• Specialty interfacing

  Specialty interfacing is designed for specific applications or fabrics. It includes options like padded interfacing for collars and cuffs, sheer interfacing for lightweight fabrics, and knit interfacing for stretchy fabrics. Each type of specialty interfacing offers unique properties and benefits, ensuring a perfect fit and finish for various sewing projects. Specialty interfacing is often available in different weights, textures, and compositions, making it versatile and adaptable to various sewing needs.

Design of fabric interfacing

Fabric interfacing is a textile material used to strengthen and support other fabrics. It is usually made of non-woven material and comes in different weights and textures. Here are some essential aspects of interfacing design.

• Composition and Texture

  Fabric interfacing is typically made from various materials, including cotton, polyester, nylon, or a blend of fibers. Each composition offers distinct characteristics. For instance, cotton interfacing provides breathability and natural feel, while polyester offers durability and wrinkle resistance. The texture of the interfacing can range from smooth to slightly textured, depending on its intended use. Smooth interfacing is often used for lightweight fabrics to prevent irritation and chafing, while textured interfacing can provide better grip and support for heavier fabrics.

• Weight and Stability

  The weight of the fabric interfacing plays a crucial role in determining its stability and support. Lightweight interfacing is suitable for delicate fabrics like silk or chiffon, as it adds minimal bulk and maintains the fabric's drape. On the other hand, heavyweight interfacing is used for structured garments like blazers or tailored shirts, providing firm support and shaping. The stability of the interfacing is essential for maintaining the garment's structure and form over time, ensuring a well-fitted and polished appearance.

• Adhesive Properties

  Many fabric interfacings come with pre-applied adhesive coatings that activate with heat. These adhesives simplify the application process, allowing the interfacing to bond directly to the fabric with the help of an iron. The adhesive quality varies, with some providing a temporary bond that allows for repositioning before finalizing the attachment. Others offer a permanent bond for a more secure and long-lasting connection. The choice of adhesive depends on the project's requirements and the compatibility of the interfacing with different fabric types.

• Drape and Flexibility

  The drape and flexibility of fabric interfacing significantly impact the overall appearance and feel of the finished garment. Interfacing with a stiff drape adds structure and rigidity to the fabric, making it ideal for tailored and structured designs. Conversely, interfacing with a soft drape allows for more fluidity and movement, suitable for relaxed and casual styles. The flexibility of the interfacing also influences how well the garment conforms to the body's contours, ensuring a comfortable fit without compromising style.

Wearing/Matching suggestions of fabric interfacing

Fabric interfacing is utilized to reinforce fabric and offer more support and stability to the fabric being worked on. It is important to pick the interfacing that will best fit the fabric and the sort of project being worked on. Below are some suggestions for wearing/matching interfacing to fabric.

• Woven interfacing

  Woven interfacing is a sort of interfacing that offers a lot of stability to the fabric. It is appropriate to use when working with fabrics that are woven since it will add some body to the fabric while still allowing it to move. Woven interfacing can be used on fabrics like cotton, silk, and linen. It is likewise useful for stabilizing necklines, armholes, and other areas where additional support is needed. Woven interfacing is available in various weights, so one can choose the weight best suited for the fabric and project.

• Non-woven interfacing

  This type of interfacing is another option that is even easier to use. It does not require any additional preparation because it is simple to cut and use. Non-woven interfacing is suitable for fabrics such as knits and stretch fabrics because it permits some elasticity. It is also useful for reinforcing buttonholes and seams. Non-woven interfacing is available in fusible and sew-in types. Fusible interfacing has an adhesive side that can be easily ironed onto the fabric, while sew-in interfacing requires stitches to attach it to the fabric.

• Fusible interfacing

  Fusible interfacing is one of the most commonly used types of interfacing. It has an adhesive side that bonds to the fabric when ironed. Fusible interfacing is easy to use and provides a permanent bond. It is suitable for reinforcing seams, hems, and edges. Fusible interfacing works well with woven fabrics and is available in various weights and thicknesses. One can select the right weight based on the fabric weight and the level of support required.

• Sew-in interfacing

  Unlike fusible interfacing, sew-in interfacing is attached to the fabric using stitches. It offers a more flexible and softer finish, which is ideal for delicate fabrics. Sew-in interfacing is suitable for structured garments such as jackets, coats, and tailored shirts. It is available in woven, non-woven, and foam types. Each type offers different levels of support and structure. One should consider the fabric type and the desired outcome when choosing sew-in interfacing.

• Specialty interfacing

  Specialty interfacing is also available for specific applications. For instance, knit interfacing is designed for use with knit fabrics to maintain their stretch and recovery. Sheerweight interfacing is suitable for lightweight and sheer fabrics to provide subtle support without adding bulk. Leather and suede interfacing offers support and structure for leather projects.

Q&A

Q1: What is the difference between woven and non woven interfacing?

A1: Woven interfacing is created from yarns that are woven together in a crisscross pattern. This kind of interfacing is preferred because it is flexible and has a texture that is similar to the fabric it is applied to. It is also less likely to wrinkle or shrink. Since woven interfacing has grain, it must be cut in the same direction as the fabric grain to achieve the desired stability. Non-woven interfacing is made by bonding fibers together instead of weaving them. It is usually more stable and easier to handle because it does not have a grain. However, it may not drape or press as nicely as woven interfacing.

Q2: Can fusible interfacing be used with all types of fabrics?

A2: While fusible interfacing is convenient and easy to use, it is not suitable for all fabrics. It works well with cotton, polyester, and blends but may not adhere properly to slippery fabrics like silk or chiffon. It is also not recommended for use with fabrics that are heat-sensitive or have a tendency to melt, such as some nylon or acetate fabrics. In these cases, sew-in interfacing is a better option.

Q3: How do I choose the right weight of interfacing for my project?

A3: The weight of the interfacing depends on the type of fabric being used and the amount of stability required. Lightweight interfacing (up to 18 g/m2) is suitable for delicate fabrics such as silk or for adding slight stability to lightweight fabrics. Medium-weight interfacing (18-30 g/m2) is versatile and works well with most fabrics, providing moderate stability. Heavyweight interfacing (30-50 g/m2) is ideal for heavy fabrics like denim or for projects requiring strong support, such as bags or collars.

Q4: Can interfacing be used to repair damaged fabric?

A4: Yes, interfacing can be used to reinforce and repair areas of fabric that are worn or damaged. By applying interfacing to the wrong side of the fabric, it can help stabilize tears, frays, or weak spots, extending the life of the fabric. This method is particularly useful for repairing seams, hems, or areas prone to stress.