Rabbits may look harmless, even endearing, but when they start tunneling under your garden fence, they can quickly become a persistent nuisance. These small burrowers are naturally inclined to dig, seeking shelter, safety, or access to food-rich areas like vegetable beds and flower gardens. Once they breach your perimeter, they can decimate young plants, chew through stems, and undermine the structural integrity of fencing. The key to long-term peace in your yard isn’t just about blocking one hole—it’s about understanding rabbit behavior and implementing durable, humane solutions that discourage digging before it starts.
This guide covers practical, tested methods to prevent rabbits from digging under fences, including physical barriers, natural deterrents, landscaping adjustments, and proactive monitoring. Whether you're dealing with cottontails in suburban backyards or wild hares in rural settings, these strategies will help secure your outdoor space without harming local wildlife.
Understanding Why Rabbits Dig Under Fences
Rabbits are instinctive diggers. In the wild, they create complex burrow systems for protection from predators and extreme weather. Even domesticated breeds retain this behavior. When they encounter a fence, they don’t see an impenetrable wall—they see an obstacle to be circumvented. If food, water, or cover lies on the other side, motivation increases significantly.
The most common reasons rabbits attempt to dig under fences include:
- Access to food sources – Gardens with tender greens, vegetables, and flowers are highly attractive.
- Shelter and nesting – Rabbits seek dry, hidden spaces to rest or raise young.
- Avoiding predators – A quick escape route is essential for survival.
- Territorial expansion – Especially during breeding season, rabbits explore new areas.
Addressing only the symptom—patching holes—leads to recurring problems. Instead, focus on eliminating both the opportunity and incentive for rabbits to dig.
Install a Physical Barrier Below Ground Level
The most reliable way to stop rabbits from digging under fences is to extend the barrier below the soil surface. A standard above-ground fence, no matter how tall, is ineffective if it doesn’t continue underground.
The ideal solution is to install a buried wire mesh apron or \"L-footer\" along the exterior base of your fence. Here’s how to do it properly:
- Use galvanized hardware cloth (not chicken wire), which is stronger and more resistant to chewing. Choose a mesh size of 1 inch or smaller.
- Bury at least 6–12 inches deep. Most rabbits won’t dig deeper than a foot, especially if the soil is compacted or rocky.
- Extend 12–18 inches outward from the fence base, forming an “L” shape. This horizontal extension discourages rabbits from attempting to go under because it creates a false floor they cannot penetrate.
- Secure the mesh firmly to the bottom of the existing fence using galvanized staples or U-nails. Overlap sections by at least 6 inches and fasten tightly.
- Cover the horizontal portion lightly with soil or mulch to hold it in place while still allowing grass or ground cover to grow over it.
This method is widely recommended by agricultural extension services and wildlife control experts. It’s durable, invisible once installed, and effective against other diggers like raccoons or skunks.
“An L-footer made of hardware cloth is the single most effective modification homeowners can make to exclude rabbits. It’s simple, affordable, and lasts for years.” — Dr. Laura Simmons, Wildlife Biologist, University of Vermont Extension
Alternative Materials and Techniques
Not all yards allow for extensive excavation. For renters, sloped landscapes, or delicate garden beds, alternative approaches can offer sufficient protection.
| Method | Effectiveness | Installation Difficulty | Best For |
|---|---|---|---|
| Buried concrete blocks or pavers | High | Moderate | Permanent structures, raised beds |
| Chicken wire trench barrier | Low-Moderate | Easy | Temporary fixes, soft soils |
| Gravel trench (6+ inches deep) | Moderate | Easy | Dry climates, decorative borders |
| Electric mesh fencing (low voltage) | High | Moderate | Large enclosures, farms |
| Commercial underground barrier panels | High | Easy | Renters, modular gardens |
While chicken wire is often used due to availability, its larger gaps and flimsy construction make it less effective. Rabbits can easily bend or bite through it. Hardware cloth, though slightly more expensive, offers superior durability and longevity.
For those unable to bury material, consider placing heavy rocks or pavers tightly along the outside base of the fence. While not foolproof, this creates a psychological and physical deterrent, especially when combined with other methods.
Natural and Humane Deterrents That Work
Physical barriers are the foundation, but pairing them with behavioral deterrents enhances effectiveness. These methods reduce a rabbit’s desire to approach your yard in the first place.
Plant rabbit-resistant species near fence lines. Rabbits avoid strong scents and prickly textures. Effective options include:
- Lavender
- Sage
- Marigolds
- Onions and garlic
- Yarrow
- Catmint
Use scent-based repellents. Commercial sprays containing predator urine (such as coyote or fox) trigger fear responses. Reapply after rain or every 2–3 weeks. Homemade alternatives—like a mixture of crushed garlic, chili pepper, and water—can also deter feeding, though they require frequent reapplication.
Introduce motion-activated devices. Solar-powered sprinklers with infrared sensors startle rabbits with sudden bursts of water. They learn to avoid zones where movement triggers discomfort.
Mini Case Study: The Urban Garden Transformation
In Portland, Oregon, homeowner Maria Chen struggled with eastern cottontails destroying her kale, lettuce, and pea shoots each spring. Her chain-link fence offered no resistance, and she found new tunnels almost daily. After researching humane solutions, she implemented a multi-pronged strategy:
- Buried 24-inch-wide hardware cloth 10 inches deep around her 12'x10' garden bed, bent outward into an L-shape.
- Planted a border of lavender and marigolds along the fence line.
- Installed a motion-activated sprinkler in the northwest corner—a known entry point.
- Applied fox urine granules monthly during active seasons.
Within three weeks, rabbit activity ceased. Two years later, no new digging has occurred. “I didn’t want to trap or harm them,” Maria said. “Now they stay in the wooded area behind my house, where they belong.”
Step-by-Step Guide to Rabbit-Proofing Your Fence
Follow this timeline to effectively secure your yard against rabbit intrusion:
- Week 1: Survey and Plan
- Walk your fence line and mark any existing holes or weak spots.
- Measure the total linear feet needing protection.
- Purchase galvanized hardware cloth (¼ inch or 1 inch mesh), stakes, and fasteners.
- Week 2: Install the Underground Barrier
- Dig a trench 12 inches wide and 6–12 inches deep along the outside of the fence.
- Unroll hardware cloth, bending it into an L-shape.
- Attach vertically to fence base; stake horizontally section every 2 feet.
- Backfill trench and lightly tamp soil.
- Week 3: Add Secondary Deterrents
- Plant deterrent vegetation or apply gravel border.
- Set up motion-activated sprinkler or noise device.
- Apply scent repellent according to label instructions.
- Ongoing: Monitor and Maintain
- Inspect monthly for signs of new digging or lifted mesh.
- Reapply repellents after heavy rain.
- Trim plants near the fence to eliminate hiding spots.
This phased approach ensures thorough coverage without overwhelming effort. Most homeowners complete the physical installation in a weekend.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I use chicken wire instead of hardware cloth?
You can, but it’s not recommended. Chicken wire has larger openings and is easily chewed or pushed aside by determined rabbits. Hardware cloth, made of heavier-gauge metal with smaller mesh, provides far better protection and lasts longer.
Will ultrasonic devices keep rabbits away?
Most scientific studies show limited or no effectiveness for ultrasonic repellents against rabbits. These devices emit high-frequency sounds that many animals—including rabbits—quickly ignore. Motion-activated sprinklers or physical barriers are far more reliable.
How deep do rabbits typically dig?
Most wild rabbits dig burrows between 4 and 12 inches deep for temporary shelter. Nesting dens may reach 18–24 inches, but these are rare in residential yards. A 10–12 inch buried barrier is usually sufficient to block access.
Checklist: Rabbit-Proof Your Backyard Fence
- ✅ Inspect entire fence perimeter for gaps or damage
- ✅ Purchase galvanized hardware cloth (1\" mesh or smaller)
- ✅ Dig trench 6–12 inches deep along outside of fence
- ✅ Install L-shaped barrier: 12” down, 12–18” out
- ✅ Secure mesh to fence and stake flat portion to ground
- ✅ Backfill and tamp soil over buried section
- ✅ Plant rabbit-resistant border plants (e.g., lavender, marigolds)
- ✅ Install motion-activated sprinkler or light
- ✅ Apply scent repellent (predator urine or homemade spray)
- ✅ Schedule monthly inspections during active seasons
Conclusion
Keeping rabbits from digging under fences requires foresight, not force. By combining a well-installed subsurface barrier with smart landscaping and humane deterrents, you can protect your garden without resorting to traps or harmful chemicals. The investment of time and materials pays off in healthier plants, reduced maintenance, and peace of mind knowing your solution is both effective and ethical.
Rabbits are part of the ecosystem, and coexistence is possible with the right strategies. Start with the L-footer method—it’s the gold standard for exclusion—and build from there. Your backyard doesn’t have to be a battleground. With thoughtful planning, it can remain a lush, thriving space for you, not for burrowing bunnies.








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