The Complete Guide To Safely And Accurately Leveling Your Mobile Home Yourself

Leveling a mobile home is not just about comfort—it’s about structural integrity, safety, and longevity. Over time, shifting soil, poor initial setup, or settling can cause a manufactured home to tilt, leading to doors that won’t close, uneven floors, plumbing issues, and even long-term damage. While many homeowners assume this task requires professional help, it's entirely possible—and often more affordable—to do it yourself with the right knowledge, tools, and precautions.

This guide walks you through every phase of the process: from diagnosing imbalance to choosing the correct equipment, executing precise adjustments, and maintaining stability over time. Whether you're dealing with a slight lean or significant misalignment, this comprehensive approach ensures safety, accuracy, and lasting results.

Why Leveling Matters for Mobile Homes

Unlike traditional site-built homes, mobile homes are constructed on steel chassis frames with adjustable piers and jacks. This design allows for transport but makes them vulnerable to ground movement. When a mobile home becomes unlevel, several problems arise:

• Structural stress: Twisting forces on the frame can lead to cracks in walls, ceilings, and flooring.
• Plumbing and drainage issues: Sewer lines rely on gravity; an unlevel home can cause backups or slow drains.
• Doors and windows malfunction: Misaligned frames prevent proper opening and closing, increasing wear and security risks.
• Appliance inefficiency: Refrigerators, washing machines, and dryers operate poorly on tilted surfaces.

“Even a 1-inch difference across the length of a mobile home can create serious mechanical strain. Regular inspection and correction are part of responsible ownership.” — Dale Richards, Senior Inspector at National Manufactured Housing Association

Tip: Check for levelness at least twice a year—especially after heavy rains or seasonal ground shifts.

Essential Tools and Materials

Before starting, gather all necessary tools. Accuracy depends heavily on using reliable equipment. Here’s what you’ll need:

Tool/Material	Purpose	Recommended Type
Digital or Torpedo Level	Measure pitch across floors and along walls	At least 24-inch magnetic level for frame use
Hydraulic Jacks (x2–4)	Lift sections of the home safely	10–20 ton capacity, rated for mobile homes
Concrete Pier Blocks or Stacking Piers	Support structure once leveled	Adjustable metal piers preferred over wood
Shims (Wood or Composite)	Fill small gaps under beams	Weather-resistant composite shims
Tape Measure & Chalk Line	Mark reference points and distances	25-foot tape measure
Work Gloves & Safety Glasses	Personal protection during lifting	Heavy-duty gloves, ANSI-rated glasses

Avoid makeshift supports like cinder blocks or rotting wood—they compress or crumble under load and pose serious collapse risks.

Step-by-Step: How to Level Your Mobile Home

1. Inspect the Current Condition
   Walk around the perimeter and visually check for tilting, sinking piers, or rusted components. Open and close all doors and drawers—if they stick or swing open on their own, leveling is likely needed.
2. Clear Access Points
   Remove debris, landscaping, or skirting blocking access to support piers and the chassis frame. You must be able to reach each jack point safely.
3. Establish a Reference Level Point
   Place your level on a main floor interior surface (e.g., kitchen counter or bathroom floor). Note where the bubble sits. Then move to opposite ends of the home to compare readings. A true test involves measuring along both length and width.
4. Identify Low Spots
   Use a string line stretched taut from one end of the home to the other, 6 inches above the ground. Measure the distance from the string to the bottom of the frame at each pier. Greater distance indicates a low spot.
5. Begin Lifting (One Section at a Time)
   Start near the lowest corner. Position the hydraulic jack securely under the I-beam. Slowly raise the home just enough to remove weight from the existing pier—no more than 1/2 inch at a time. Never lift more than 1 inch total without reassessing.
6. Reposition Support Piers
   Once lifted, adjust the height of the concrete or adjustable pier beneath. Slide in shims if minor fine-tuning is required. Ensure the new support is stable and centered under the beam.
7. Lower Gently and Recheck
   Slowly release the jack pressure so the home settles onto the new support. Re-measure with the level and string line. Repeat as needed until the entire structure is within 1/4 inch of level across its length and width.
8. Secure All Points
   Double-check that all piers are bearing equal weight and that no jack remains engaged permanently. Temporary jacks should never replace permanent supports.

Tip: Work during mild weather. Avoid leveling immediately after heavy rain when soil is soft and unstable.

Real Example: Correcting a Sinking Southwest Corner

Sarah M., a homeowner in central Tennessee, noticed her back door wouldn’t latch and water pooled near the kitchen sink after mopping. Using a 48-inch level, she confirmed a 1.5-inch drop toward the southwest corner. After clearing vegetation, she used two 15-ton hydraulic jacks—one at the front and one at the rear of the low side.

Over two days, she raised the corner in 1/2-inch increments, replacing a sunken wooden pier with a stacked concrete block system reinforced with gravel base. She packed crushed stone beneath for drainage. Final measurements showed only a 1/8-inch variance—well within safe tolerance. The doors closed smoothly again, and floor squeaks diminished significantly.

Safety Checklist Before You Begin

• ✅ Confirm all gas lines and electrical connections have flexible runs to handle minor elevation changes.
• ✅ Notify household members not to enter or exit the home during lifting operations.
• ✅ Use jack stands or secondary supports when working under elevated sections.
• ✅ Never stand directly under a raised portion of the home.
• ✅ Have a partner assist with monitoring levels while adjusting jacks.
• ✅ Shut off major appliances during the process to prevent internal damage.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I level my mobile home without lifting it?

No. True leveling requires lifting the structure slightly to reposition support systems. Surface fixes like adding carpet padding won’t address underlying structural imbalance.

How often should I re-level my mobile home?

Most experts recommend checking annually. In areas with expansive clay soils or frequent freeze-thaw cycles, biannual checks are wise. Immediate action is needed if you notice sudden changes in door operation or floor slope.

Is DIY leveling safe for double-wide homes?

Yes, but extra caution is required. Double-wides have a marriage line between sections that must remain aligned. Always work symmetrically and monitor both units simultaneously to avoid differential stress.

Maintaining Long-Term Stability

Leveling isn't a one-time fix. Ongoing maintenance prevents recurrence. Install gravel skirts around the perimeter to manage water runoff and reduce erosion. Consider anchoring systems like ground anchors or tie-downs to resist wind uplift and lateral movement.

In regions with high rainfall or shifting soil, installing permanent adjustable screw piers eliminates the need for future concrete replacements. These threaded steel posts can be fine-tuned with a wrench, making annual adjustments quick and tool-light.

Conclusion: Take Control of Your Home’s Foundation

Leveling your mobile home may seem daunting, but with careful planning and attention to detail, it’s a manageable project that protects your investment and improves daily living. You don’t need years of experience—just patience, the right tools, and respect for safety protocols. By mastering this skill, you extend your home’s lifespan, enhance comfort, and gain confidence in your ability to maintain it independently.

💬 Have you leveled your mobile home yourself? Share your story, challenges, or questions in the comments below—your experience could help another homeowner avoid costly mistakes.