Is Toner Necessary In A Skincare Routine Or Outdated Advice

For decades, toner has occupied a fixed spot in the classic three-step skincare routine: cleanse, tone, moisturize. Once considered essential for removing soap residue and “closing pores,” its role has evolved dramatically with advances in dermatology and cosmetic science. Today, many wonder whether toner is still relevant—or if it’s an outdated relic of early 20th-century beauty practices. The answer isn’t a simple yes or no. It depends on your skin type, concerns, and the formulation you’re using. Understanding what modern toners actually do—and don’t do—can help you decide whether this step earns a place in your regimen.

The Evolution of Toners: From Astringents to Actives

In the mid-20th century, toners were primarily alcohol-based solutions designed to strip away oil and residual cleanser. These harsh formulas often contained high concentrations of ethanol, menthol, or witch hazel, leaving skin tight and tingly—a sensation once mistaken for effectiveness. For people with oily or acne-prone skin, they offered temporary matte control but frequently caused irritation, dryness, and compromised skin barriers.

Fast forward to today, and the toner category has transformed. Modern formulations are far gentler and more functional. Many contain hydrating agents like hyaluronic acid, soothing ingredients such as centella asiatica, or active compounds like glycolic acid, niacinamide, and antioxidants. These are not meant to strip the skin but to prep, balance, and deliver targeted benefits.

Dermatologist Dr. Lena Patel explains:

“The old-school idea that toners ‘close’ pores is a myth—pores don’t open and close like doors. But well-formulated toners can support the skin barrier, refine texture, and enhance the absorption of subsequent products.”

What Do Toners Actually Do?

Modern toners serve several potential functions, depending on their ingredients:

• pH Rebalancing: Cleansers, especially alkaline soaps, can temporarily raise the skin’s pH. Since healthy skin maintains a slightly acidic pH (around 4.5–5.5), toners with mild acids like lactic or citric acid help restore this balance, supporting the skin’s natural defense system.
• Hydration Boost: Hydrating toners often include humectants like glycerin or panthenol, which attract water to the skin. These are particularly beneficial for dry or dehydrated complexions.
• Exfoliation: Chemical exfoliating toners containing AHAs (like glycolic acid) or BHAs (like salicylic acid) gently remove dead skin cells, improving texture and clarity over time.
• Prepping for Serums: Some believe toners improve the penetration of active ingredients in serums and moisturizers by creating a smoother, more receptive surface.
• Soothing Irritation: Anti-inflammatory toners with ingredients like chamomile, allantoin, or green tea extract can calm redness and sensitivity.

Tip: If your skin feels tight or dry after cleansing, a hydrating toner applied immediately can lock in moisture before moving to the next step.

Who Benefits Most from Using a Toner?

Not every skin type requires a toner, but certain individuals may see noticeable improvements when incorporating one:

1. Oily or Acne-Prone Skin: BHA toners (containing salicylic acid) can penetrate sebum and unclog pores, reducing breakouts and blackheads.
2. Dry or Mature Skin: Hydrating toners with ceramides, hyaluronic acid, or squalane add an extra layer of moisture and support the lipid barrier.
3. Combination Skin: A balancing toner with niacinamide can regulate sebum production while calming inflammation.
4. Dull or Rough Texture: Exfoliating toners with AHAs improve cell turnover, leading to brighter, smoother skin over time.

However, those with sensitive or reactive skin should be cautious. Alcohol-heavy or heavily fragranced toners can trigger irritation, redness, or eczema flare-ups. Patch testing is crucial before integrating any new product.

Toners vs. Other Skincare Steps: Where Do They Fit?

To assess necessity, consider how toners compare to other products already in your routine:

Product	Primary Function	Overlaps with Toner?
Cleanser	Removes dirt, oil, makeup	No – toner doesn’t replace cleansing
Moisturizer	Locks in hydration, supports barrier	Partially – hydrating toners add moisture but don’t seal it
Serum	Delivers concentrated actives	Yes – some toners contain similar ingredients (e.g., niacinamide)
Essence / Treatment Lotion	Hydration and mild exfoliation	High – essences are functionally similar to toners in K-beauty routines

This comparison shows that toners aren't always unique in function. Their value lies in customization—adding specific benefits without replacing core steps.

A Real-World Example: Sarah’s Skincare Shift

Sarah, a 34-year-old with combination skin, used a foaming cleanser followed by a lightweight moisturizer. She struggled with occasional breakouts along her jawline and persistent dullness. After consulting a dermatologist, she replaced her old astringent toner (which stung and dried her cheeks) with a gentle lactic acid toner used every other night.

Within six weeks, her skin appeared brighter, and her monthly hormonal breakouts decreased. The toner helped maintain pH balance post-cleansing and provided mild exfoliation without over-drying. This case illustrates how choosing the right toner—not just any toner—can make a meaningful difference.

When Toners Are Not Necessary

Toners are not universally required. In fact, for many people, they add little benefit and may even complicate routines unnecessarily. Here are scenarios where skipping toner makes sense:

• You use a non-stripping, pH-balanced cleanser (especially low-pH gel or cream cleansers).
• Your moisturizer or serum already contains the same active ingredients (e.g., hyaluronic acid, niacinamide).
• You have sensitive or rosacea-prone skin and react to added layers of product.
• You’re simplifying your routine due to overuse or irritation from too many steps.

Board-certified dermatologist Dr. Rajiv Mehta notes:

“A minimalist routine with a good cleanser, sunscreen, and targeted treatment is often more effective than piling on multiple products. If your skin is happy and balanced, don’t feel pressured to add a toner just because it’s traditional.”

How to Choose the Right Toner (If You Use One)

If you decide to include a toner, follow this step-by-step guide to select the best option:

1. Identify Your Skin Goal: Are you seeking hydration, exfoliation, oil control, or soothing?
2. Read the Ingredient List: Avoid alcohol denat, fragrance, and essential oils if you’re sensitive. Look for beneficial components like:
   • Hyaluronic acid, glycerin → hydration
   • Niacinamide → brightening and barrier support
   • Salicylic acid → acne prevention
   • Lactic or glycolic acid → gentle exfoliation
3. Test for Compatibility: Apply to a small area first. Use once daily for a week to monitor reactions.
4. Apply Correctly: After cleansing, apply with hands or a cotton pad. Follow immediately with serum or moisturizer to lock in benefits.
5. Adjust Frequency: Exfoliating toners should be used 2–3 times per week initially; hydrating ones can be used daily.

Tip: Pour a small amount into a clean container to avoid contaminating the entire bottle when using cotton pads.

Frequently Asked Questions

Do toners really close pores?

No. Pores don’t have muscles to open or close. While cold water or astringents may temporarily tighten the skin’s surface, this effect is cosmetic and short-lived. Pore size is largely genetic, though buildup can make them appear larger—something exfoliating toners can help manage.

Can I skip toner if I use a serum?

Yes. Many serums offer the same active ingredients found in toners (like vitamin C, niacinamide, or AHAs). If your serum addresses your concerns, adding a toner may be redundant unless it provides additional hydration or pH correction.

Are toners worth the cost?

It depends on the formula. Drugstore options with proven ingredients (e.g., The Ordinary Glycolic Acid Toner or Klairs Supple Preparation Unscented Toner) offer excellent value. High-end toners with minimal active content may not justify their price. Focus on performance, not packaging.

Skincare Checklist: Should You Keep Toner?

Use this checklist to evaluate whether a toner belongs in your routine:

• ☐ Does my cleanser disrupt my skin’s pH or leave residue?
• ☐ Am I dealing with clogged pores, dullness, or uneven texture?
• ☐ Do I need extra hydration between cleansing and moisturizing?
• ☐ Have I identified a toner with ingredients that address my specific concern?
• ☐ Does my skin tolerate an additional liquid step without irritation?

If you answered “yes” to two or more, a well-chosen toner could be beneficial. Otherwise, it may be safe to omit.

Conclusion: Rethinking Necessity Through Personalization

The question of whether toner is necessary isn’t about tradition—it’s about relevance to your individual skin. While outdated alcohol-laden formulas have rightly fallen out of favor, modern toners offer targeted benefits that can enhance a thoughtful skincare regimen. However, they are not mandatory. A routine should be built around efficacy and compatibility, not habit.

Instead of asking “Should I use a toner?” ask “What problem am I trying to solve?” If hydration, exfoliation, or pH balance is a gap in your current approach, a strategic toner might fill it. If not, there’s no harm in streamlining.

💬 Have you found a toner that works for your skin? Share your experience or favorite product in the comments—your insight could help others cut through the noise and build better routines.